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New (big!) gym opening in Golden - Earthtreks

Jack Sparrow · · denver, co · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 1,560

Well said Robin

Matt Pierce · · Poncha Springs, CO · Joined May 2010 · Points: 312

I think the cost thing can be debated many ways...

For example:

I have a 24 hour membership that gets me cardio, crappy yoga, shitty locker rooms and maybe a little b-ball - for $29 a month
Impression - I get what I pay for - basically I'm renting a stairmaster for $29 a month

I used to have a Lifetime Fitness membership (only cancelled because of location) - I got a clean massive gym with pools, eucalyptus and sauna rooms, a great yoga studio, tv's on the cardio machines, and a decent rock climbing wall - for $70 a month
Impression - I got a LOT for my money...

Private Yoga
Most places like Core Power or even Kindness Yoga have memberships that run $100 - $150 a month - just for yoga - you have to really love yoga - Kindness has a drop in fee of $15
Impression - I love yoga but not that much...

Colorado Athletic Club - Ive looked here recently because of location only - nice gym and good yoga, good locations downtown Denver - but it's $110 a month
Impression - Might be worth it but I haven't committed yet...

RNJ - $15 day passes to battle crowds, kids, newbs, claustrophobia to pull on some plastic
Impression - I pay this sparingly (not worth the $ to me) - I go maybe 6-8 times a year

ET - I think $19 is a little high but the monthly doesnt seem bad. The problem is for those who don't live in Golden. I'd like to come at least 3 times a month - but that's nearly $60 and if I pay the monthly I'll feel obligated to use it and because of the location I won't so I'll get frustrated and cancel...

I know it's a multi-million dollar gym and it really does kick ass - I would just like to see reasonably priced punch cards or off-hours cards for those of us who can't make it there 4-5 nights a week etc...

Todd99 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2010 · Points: 0

I just got back from visiting family in Golden. I live in South Florida, my gym down here is tiny, hot, and a world away from Earth Treks. The gym in Golden is very pretty, the routes weren't rated as hard as the routes at my gym but it was fun. If I wanted to be petty I could find something to complain about. When I go back in the summer if it rains I won't complain if I have to go to the gym for a day or two.
I didn't think the day pass was outrageously priced. The gyms here and in Miami charge $16-22 a visit I think. The place is 15-20 min from my parents depending on the traffic and the cops on 93. It's a great gym I'll look forward to climbing no matter the weather or time of year whenever I go back to visit.

Kai Huang · · Aurora, CO · Joined May 2008 · Points: 105

I finally started my hangboard cycle at ET, and it was good news to see pulleys, weights, and weight belt in the area.

Suggestion 1: A crash pad for upstairs hangboard area for the vertical challenged people. While chair kinda worked, or even a step stool, there were times that I thought I was gonna fall/trip on it and hurt myself.

Suggestion 2: Reset and dedicate one of the adjustable walls next to hangboard area to be more system board like with symmetrical holds and HIT strips holds.

JASON A. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 6
Kai Huang wrote:I finally started my hangboard cycle at ET, and it was good news to see pulleys, weights, and weight belt in the area. Suggestion 1: A crash pad for upstairs hangboard area for the vertical challenged people. While chair kinda worked, or even a step stool, there were times that I thought I was gonna fall/trip on it and hurt myself. Suggestion 2: Reset and dedicate one of the adjustable walls next to hangboard area to be more system board like with symmetrical holds and HIT strips holds.
Symmetrical holds. . . HIT strips. . . This sounds amazing.

I do love the "woody" feel of the walls up there. Especially when I get bored/annoyed of the corral downstairs with the children running every which way.
Ali K. · · Denver, CO · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 0

Hello community! I am planning on going to the Earthtreks opening party this friday. I moved to Denver this year, but am a Colorado native.
Just looking for some BackCountry, or WP/ Copper Pass skiing buddies for this spring, and of course, Im always looking for some climbing pals as well.
Well, my name is Ali, if anyone is going to the gym this friday, let me know, maybe we could meet up there or get out later sometime.

Thanks!
Ali

GabeO · · Boston, MA · Joined May 2006 · Points: 302

I disagree with this:

reboot wrote:The cracks are an obvious afterthought. Those of you that actually climb cracks would understand immediately. It's a joke compared to the cracks at Planet Granite in the bay area.
I think the cracks are, for the most part, quite good. Particularly in comparison to what's available in the rest of the gyms HERE (not in CA). I'll get to why the comparison is invalid later.

Pros:
- There are four of them, so that's certainly more than an afterthought
- They run from fat fingers to small offwidth, so they cover most of the hard sizes.
- There is one that angles quite a bit, which is rare to find, and changes things dramatically.
- There are some angles on the walls adjacent to some of the cracks, allowing you to work some with body tension and opposition if you choose.
- There is an easy hand crack for those just getting into it.

Cons:
- Most of the cracks have very sharp edges. This is fine for the wider cracks, but for the thin hands and smaller ones, it's hell on the feet. On one of them the edges are rounded, though, which is nice.
- It would've been nice to use a little less texture on the insides of the crack. I saw one woman do the hand crack in short sleeves. Her poor arms look like they got run over when she came down. Hopefully the texture will wear down in time.

Honestly, I've been to all the gyms in the Denver Metro area, and the cracks are majorly underutilized in all of 'em. Gym climbers here just don't climb cracks. So while I'd love to see more than four cracks in a facility that size, I honestly think it would've been a waste of resources on the part of the owners to build them into the structure. I think they found a good middle ground between a true "afterthought" and a true crack-focused gym.

GO
Christian Mason · · Westminster CO · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 161

Another suggestion I would have is more aggressive resetting. Most of the time when we climb there, there is a wall closed and we here drilling the entire time. Only to find that there is one new route.

I think here they could also take a cue from Movement. If you're going to close a wall for setting, it probably makes sense to completely strip and reset it. I think doing that on a regular basis, and having a schedule for when each wall is reset, would help prevent the route selection from getting stale.

On a positive note, I feel like the quality of the routes has improved significantly from when the gym opened.

JASON A. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 6
GabeO wrote:I disagree with this: I think the cracks are, for the most part, quite good. Particularly in comparison to what's available in the rest of the gyms HERE (not in CA). I'll get to why the comparison is invalid later. Pros: - There are four of them, so that's certainly more than an afterthought - They run from fat fingers to small offwidth, so they cover most of the hard sizes. - There is one that angles quite a bit, which is rare to find, and changes things dramatically. - There are some angles on the walls adjacent to some of the cracks, allowing you to work some with body tension and opposition if you choose. - There is an easy hand crack for those just getting into it. Cons: - Most of the cracks have very sharp edges. This is fine for the wider cracks, but for the thin hands and smaller ones, it's hell on the feet. On one of them the edges are rounded, though, which is nice. - It would've been nice to use a little less texture on the insides of the crack. I saw one woman do the hand crack in short sleeves. Her poor arms look like they got run over when she came down. Hopefully the texture will wear down in time. Honestly, I've been to all the gyms in the Denver Metro area, and the cracks are majorly underutilized in all of 'em. Gym climbers here just don't climb cracks. So while I'd love to see more than four cracks in a facility that size, I honestly think it would've been a waste of resources on the part of the owners to build them into the structure. I think they found a good middle ground between a true "afterthought" and a true crack-focused gym. GO
There is a super secret, angle changing fist crack upstairs between two of the hydraulic woodies. Put the Black and blue one at the same angle, then climb the crack between the two walls.
Kai Huang · · Aurora, CO · Joined May 2008 · Points: 105

Ask and you shall receive! Thanks for the stool and system board update! It's really impressive how ET listens to suggestions and make changes appropriately and quickly.

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115
Kai Huang wrote:Ask and you shall receive! Thanks for the stool and system board update! It's really impressive how ET listens to suggestions and make changes appropriately and quickly.
Yah, the new setup for the white board is awesome. Good work, Will.
O'Doyle · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 0

I really enjoy the new gym but I gotta say, the talks about skipping the first clips are getting old. It seems incredibly hypocritical to force climbers to clip a draw that is 6 feet off the ground, yet on the other side of the gym, boulder problems are well into the ankle braking zone. They claim that it is for the safety of the climber, but what about the belayer who gets pulled into the wall harder due to the low first clip? In my opinion, most of these first clips should be removed entirely, or considered optional. This would save the staff, and climbers from an unnecessary discussion that takes place way too often.

Also, I witnessed several climbers get talked to because they skipped clips high on the routes. Once again, if a climber is choosing to skip a clip, there is probably a deeper reason for this other than their negligence. If the gym really wants every clip to be made, the setting should cater to that policy. Either acknowledge that this may happen, and just as long that it is within reason, it's ok, or make some changes to how routes are set.

Just my 2 cents.

Rob Eison · · Denver, CO · Joined Sep 2003 · Points: 230

Try Clear Creek Canyon. It's free! And supposed to be in the upper 50's tomorrow. Plenty of crags get sun and a plethora of grades to be found. Check out Highlander Crag, Primo, the Crystal Tower, Conspiracy Crag, Dog House just to name a few with southern exposure. The Quarry and East Quarry on Table Mountain good choices as well.

Steep prices aren't the only reason I've made it to Earth Treks only once since they opened.

Jonny Greenlee · · Denver, CO · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 280
O'Doyle wrote: Also, I witnessed several climbers get talked to because they skipped clips high on the routes. Once again, if a climber is choosing to skip a clip, there is probably a deeper reason for this other than their negligence. If the gym really wants every clip to be made, the setting should cater to that policy. Either acknowledge that this may happen, and just as long that it is within reason, it's ok, or make some changes to how routes are set. Just my 2 cents.
I got busted for skipping the first clip on a route that starts with a mantle onto a large hold about 7ft off the ground, the first clip does nothing to protect the opening move and would only risk getting tangled in the rope on an otherwise safe fall- once you've done the mantel, you can reach up and clip the 2nd or 3rd bolt with equal ease. I explained myself, but policy is policy. Its a great gym- and it being a gym, not a crag, sadly means their rules are the rules.

That being said- at times the setting at ET does not cater well to the clipping, and being required to clip every bolt sometimes just does not make sense with the way a climb is put up.
BrianWS · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 790

This is an issue at the Rockville location on most of the routes from hard 5.11 and up. The setters' logic is that routes need to be sustained to give an appropriate challenge at the grade, given the gym's short(ish) height -- a comfortable clipping stance provides a solid rest, interrupts long, intricate sequences, etc. For better or worse, this mindset often leads to cruxy or dynamic moves before the second bolt and impossible (at the grade at least) clips mid-route. I've seen and been on the receiving end of some spectacular climber-belayer collisions on these lines.

The staff here generally tolerates skipping clips higher up difficult steep routes. Still, that doesn't account for the frequent routes with heinously tough stances low-down or midway that would be unsafe to skip or runout. They're irritating and stiffen the grade considerably.

I've gotten used to just pre-clipping the second bolt from an easier route nearby or by dogging up the draws. If there's a shitty clip midway, I'll add a foot or hold from a neighboring route(ie cheat) when working things out. I feel no shame in partial top-roping or the occasional addition of holds. I value my knees and ankles, and above all else, it's only a gym.

O'Doyle wrote:I really enjoy the new gym but I gotta say, the talks about skipping the first clips are getting old. It seems incredibly hypocritical to force climbers to clip a draw that is 6 feet off the ground, yet on the other side of the gym, boulder problems are well into the ankle braking zone. They claim that it is for the safety of the climber, but what about the belayer who gets pulled into the wall harder due to the low first clip? In my opinion, most of these first clips should be removed entirely, or considered optional. This would save the staff, and climbers from an unnecessary discussion that takes place way too often. Also, I witnessed several climbers get talked to because they skipped clips high on the routes. Once again, if a climber is choosing to skip a clip, there is probably a deeper reason for this other than their negligence. If the gym really wants every clip to be made, the setting should cater to that policy. Either acknowledge that this may happen, and just as long that it is within reason, it's ok, or make some changes to how routes are set. Just my 2 cents.
Derek Lawrence · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 695

I too have been "talked to" about skipping the 1st clip, and the last clip...
The rule about clipping the first bolt is especially wacked as they allow bouldering on the main walls as long as your head is not above 10ft. You can clip the 2nd draw on pretty much all the routes while staying within that parameter.

Monty · · Golden, CO · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 3,520

I feel bad for the staff who has to enforce this policy! I personally couldn't argue with someone the necessity of the low clips or that skipping clips high on routes is more dangerous than blowing them. The rhetoric I heard behind the requirement of the first clips was that by skipping it, there is more force in the falls. This could be true if you fell low on the route before having multiple draws clipped, but then again, if a gym is setting appropriately for the grade, falls shouldn't be occurring that low on routes. I'm no expert on forces in climbing falls, but wouldn't forces in a fall low on a route have the same impact force regardless of the number of draws clipped?

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115
Monty wrote: The rhetoric I heard behind the requirement of the first clips was that by skipping it, there is more force in the falls.
I honestly think the opposite is true. With the absurdly low first bolt clipped, it is really hard for the belayer to jump to give an adequately soft catch, without (the belayer) getting slammed into the wall or that first draw. Skipping the first gives the belayer a lot more room to move, and to jump when the leader falls, and just makes for a better belay. The belayer can give a soft catch, without the danger of getting yanked into the bottom of the wall.

Secondly, I don't think that clipping the first bolt is a good idea for protecting a fall before the second bolt. Any fall at that height, with so little rope out, is going to be really jarring, and you'll probably wrecking-ball into your belayer. From that height, with a soft pad beneath, I'd much rather just land on the ground. Also, as you said, skipping a clip high on a route is safer than blowing it.

The clipping issues here basically come from the fact that the draws at this gym are inconveniently close together. Of course, a gym needs close bolts for safety/liability purposes, but this gym seems to take this idea a bit too far. The difficult clips issues basically comes from the fact that, to clip every bolt, you have to clip every other move, just about. Routes setting can't put in a decent clipping stance at every bolt, since having stances this frequently would horribly interrupt any route continuity. A first bolt placed at reasonable height (perhaps halfway between the current first and second bolts), and a slightly greater bolt spacing higher on the route, would solve all of these issues....and actually increase safety.
Monty · · Golden, CO · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 3,520
JCM wrote: I honestly think the opposite is true. With the absurdly low first bolt clipped, it is really hard for the belayer to jump to give an adequately soft catch, without (the belayer) getting slammed into the wall or that first draw.
I've had several lighter belayers ask me to skip the first clip just so they don't get slammed into the wall...
JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115
Monty wrote: I've had several lighter belayers ask me to skip the first clip just so they don't get slammed into the wall...
I routinely ask this of people I climb with at that gym...even when they are the same weight as me. I also make sure to do this for my belayers. A friend of mine (heavier than me) hurt her toe at ET from getting slammed into the wall when I fell, with the first bolt clipped. I had clipped the first bolt because this was shortly after getting "the talk" from a gym employee for skipping the first on a different route. After that incident, I firmly decided to ignore gym policy and do what actually makes sense.

The habit I've gotten into there, for routes with a difficult start, is to do a bit of a gym "stick clip" by rambling up the adjacent 5.9 jug haul to clip the second bolt, lowering back down, and then starting my route. This keeps the belayer happy, and prevents a jarring first-bolt fall or a difficult clip of the second bolt. Someone else already mentioned this practice upthread.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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