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Sardonic Smile
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2.4 from 12
votes
Routes in Below The Old New Place
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[Redacted] S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Atom Ant (aka Nuclear Ant Farm) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Color of My Potion S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Fat Boys Don't Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Flesh-Eating Gnats S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Got a Nightstick, Got a Gun, Got Time on My Hands S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Greg Shredder T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Inflight Movie S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Instant Dogma S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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L Dopa T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Little Shop Of Horrors S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Manic Crack (aka Left Twin Crack) T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Manic Nirvana S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Monsterpiece Theatre S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Oscar de La Cholla T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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P.M.S. S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Pathogenic Cysts S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Polyester Terror T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Putterman Cracks T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ralph's Dilemma T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Ralph's Leisure Suit S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ralph's Revenge T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Right Twin Crack (aka Lost Nerve) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Route 1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Route 22 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Route 24 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Route 25 S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Route 26 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Route 27 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Route 31 S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Route 32 T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sardonic Smile S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Scandinavian Airlines S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Strong Urge to Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wailing Banshees S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 45 ft (14 m) |
| FA: | Brian Riepe, 8/89 |
| Page Views: | 1,600 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Monomaniac on Apr 16, 2007 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Description
This route would be pretty good if it weren't so dirty. Unfortunately, it's currently covered in a thick film of mud that really detracts from the climbing experience.
If you must, begin by scrambling up the ledge and traversing out right. Head up right of the first bolt on good but camoflauged (by mud) holds to a nearly invisible clipping jug right next to the first bolt. Long cranks on large pockets lead to more good crimps past the 2nd bolt. After the third bolt, the wall slabs out and the crimps get very thin and sharp. Some desperate moves lead to some not-as-good-as they look clipping holds at the 4th bolt. A few more casual moves lead to the anchor.
If you must, begin by scrambling up the ledge and traversing out right. Head up right of the first bolt on good but camoflauged (by mud) holds to a nearly invisible clipping jug right next to the first bolt. Long cranks on large pockets lead to more good crimps past the 2nd bolt. After the third bolt, the wall slabs out and the crimps get very thin and sharp. Some desperate moves lead to some not-as-good-as they look clipping holds at the 4th bolt. A few more casual moves lead to the anchor.
Protection
4 bolts, 2 bolt chain anchor shared with Color of My Potion. May want to stick clip the 1st bolt to avoid a ledge fall.
Photos
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