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Suggestion for rope

Original Post
Chris Freye · · Seattle · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 30

So I think it's time to buy my own set of ice climbing ropes and I'm not quite sure I'm getting what I should be. I'm thinking of a set of Bluewater Ice Floss which is a twin dry rope. However, I'm not sure if there is something better out there. Also should I get a 60 M or 70 M?

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

Yes.

Jeff Johnston · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 110
Chris Freye wrote:So I think it's time to buy my own set of ice climbing ropes and I'm not quite sure I'm getting what I should be. I'm thinking of a set of Bluewater Ice Floss which is a twin dry rope. However, I'm not sure if there is something better out there. Also should I get a 60 M or 70 M?
I would look at something that has a twin and a half rating. Its a bit more flexible if you want/need to clip on strand or the other for a wandering route.
as for 60m or 70m it all depends on the routes you are climbing. In my experence 70 are nice, but I also build anchors and such off of the rope so the extra length is useful. If I was sticking to cordeletts for my anchors, two 60 would do like 80% of my ice climbing.

Also consider a 9.2 ish single rope and a rap line, It help keeps the clustFs to a minimum at the belays on a multi pitch. its doable to keep two ropes separate at belays but when the tangle happens it can suck big time.
FosterK · · Edmonton, AB · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 67

Beal Joker or Mammut Serenity (e.g. Ropes triple rates for single, half, and twin) and a thinner half rope in 70 m. Allows you to link shorter pitches if necessary, full length rappels, and gives you flexibility in rope systems.

Steve Williams · · The state of confusion · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 235

What ever you buy, make sure it's dry or double dry.
Frozen ropes are a b****.

Allen Sanderson · · On the road to perdition · Joined Jul 2007 · Points: 1,203

PMI 8.1mm x 60m Verglas - twin and half rating. I would not get 70m ropes for ice too much cord to deal with. Fine for rock with a single rope.

I have been climbing on a version of the above except it was a 100m bi-colored roped that they made for me. Great rope and would buy another.

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

What are you climbing? If you're only doing single pitch routes then get a single. If you like doubles for multi then go with doubles. If you're TRing at all those Ice Floss twin aren't what you want. Where are you climbing? I climb in the Adirondacks so 70M rope comes in handy. If most of the stuff you do can be done with a 60 then get a 60M rope.

For doubles I like Mammut Genesis 8.5mm. My single is a 70M Bluewater Wave 9.3mm but if I know it's going to be a day of TR I have an Mammut 10.2mm 50M rope. If I had to pick one rope due money I would go with the Wave and a tag line. Or just the Wave and stick with climbs under 110 feet.

iceman777 · · Colorado Springs · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 60

I just have one question , why twins ? Is your heart ,mind set on twins for some reason ?. Alpine where you can split the weight between you and your partner and have full length raps is the only reason I carry and use twins ESP when there is a longgggg hike into climb. Other then that they pretty much stay in there bags at home .

I have the bw ice floss 70m and while there great ropes they also knot themselves into a frickn mess no matter what or how you coil them . I'm on the same page as Kirby 1013
I think he has you pointed in the right direction .get a good super dry single that fits your
Needs as far as the length ,just realize that no dry treatment from any mfr will last more than a good hard season of climbing ESP with all the raps you will be doing .also no amount of dry treatment will help when the ice is wet ,your going to end up with a rope sheathed in ice

For what it's worth here is how I roll : 1 good super dry rope 70 m used until the dry treatment starts to fade then that rope becomes my trad rope and I purchase another super dry for ice next year .

Ropes I tend to stay away from because there super dry treatment is crap , the number one on my hit list is Sterling . I had a bipattern super dry 9.5X60 that didn't stay dry past two trips , while sterling makes some good ropes and i enjoy them for trad climbing there dry ones leave a lot to be desired .

Best bang for the buck are blue water , edelweiss, PMI,beal joker .

Mammut has good dry ropes but your going to pay more for there ropes .

If your heart is set on twins then I would go with PMI ,Blue water 8.5s or Beal.and skip the 7.7 ice floss . Just my two cents .

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Ice Climbing
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