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Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Hellgate Cliffs
> Tower Two
From Trilobites to Lycra Tights
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 1.7 from 3
votes
Routes in Tower Two
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Big Chill, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cave Man T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Deja Vu S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Desp-Arête S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Falcon Corner T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Falcon Corner Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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From Trilobites to Lycra Tights T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Fryable T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Insane in the Brain S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Klein's Girls T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Not Bosched Up T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Radiation Babies S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Shadow, The T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Social Realism T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Whiskey and Weed Power S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Bret Ruckman, Gary Olsen, 1988 |
| Page Views: | 1,251 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | GRK on Aug 29, 2012 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
A route that spans the ages... From old school to new(er) school, this route tackles it all. A crack, a roof, a slab, and a little bit of terror! As you climb this line you'll be unloading your passive pro and reloading your short, snappy draws (biner gates opposed, of course). Multiple cruxes await the timid choss guzzler on this thrilling, mixed climb; expect a long and wild ride. Power, finesse, gear, and quick clips; a modern time machine on rock! Its like Back to the Future, in reverse.
Trilobites: Begin up a steep, pocketed face until you reach the right-side, thin, crack. Protect this sections using micro nuts and cams up to 3 inches. Fairly solid climbing, with adequate protection, this won't be the troubling part for old timers or dinosaurs. Exit the crack and work across the space towards the first bolt.
Lycra Tights: After the crack runs out, get sporty and bold! Climb to a bulge and bolt (1st crux), work up towards the right side of a roof/crack/cave feature (optional gear exists) and locate a hidden, reachy bolt. Next pull the powerful, sequential roof (2nd crux) and end the remainder of the route up a steep and blank face. Spacious and technical, the remaining shield (3rd crux) will leave you thankful for those skin tight, pantaloons. Finish at a two bolt, shared anchor and change back into modern attire.
Trilobites: Begin up a steep, pocketed face until you reach the right-side, thin, crack. Protect this sections using micro nuts and cams up to 3 inches. Fairly solid climbing, with adequate protection, this won't be the troubling part for old timers or dinosaurs. Exit the crack and work across the space towards the first bolt.
Lycra Tights: After the crack runs out, get sporty and bold! Climb to a bulge and bolt (1st crux), work up towards the right side of a roof/crack/cave feature (optional gear exists) and locate a hidden, reachy bolt. Next pull the powerful, sequential roof (2nd crux) and end the remainder of the route up a steep and blank face. Spacious and technical, the remaining shield (3rd crux) will leave you thankful for those skin tight, pantaloons. Finish at a two bolt, shared anchor and change back into modern attire.
Location
This is the first route you encounter on the right side of the shooting gallery, its two lines right of Radiation Babies. It will be the only route with an extremely high first bolt.
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