Edelrid Mega Jul
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According to the Edelrid customer service guy quoted above: |
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Kai Larson wrote:According to the Edelrid customer service guy quoted above: "Currently, the wires have an average separation value of 4.5 kN. When used correctly in accordance with instructions for use appear on the wire forces of up to 0.2 kN." If the wires really have a separation value of 4.5 kN, then there's no way that the force applied with your thumb should be able to pull the wire out of the device. 4.5kN is over 1000 pounds of force. I can't imagine anyone other than Superman could exert over 1000 pounds of force with his thumb.It sounds like a problem of metal fatigue rather than strength of the brazing. |
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John Peters wrote: It sounds like a problem of metal fatigue rather than strength of the brazing.The wires are held in by swaging the device from the bottom. Mine is not brazed. |
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If you're searching for an altrnative belaying device that can be used on very thin ropes, i sugest you take a look at this video: |
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Looks like a variant on the gri gri rather than an alternative to the mega jul. |
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It works like nothing already on the market. It takes single ropes from 13 to 7 mm, double ropes also. |
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Franck, very interesting. It kind of reminds me of the Wild Country SRC but with an additional moving handle rather than the handle being the frame of the device. |
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As long as you pull horizontally, it doesn't lock. (It is said in the demo but in french) |
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Looked more like a demo of how to get sucked into the first draw rather than showing how the device works. |
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Looks like spam. |
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Perhaps, I'm better at climbing and inventing than for videos. |
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franck wrote:Perhaps, I'm better at climbing and inventing than for videos. My only hope is that someday it will be in the shops and you can use it and say, "Hé, this thing works great".franck: Maybe you should start a new thread with details on your belay device and inform us on how the device works, what testing it has passed, and how it is better or different than other mechanical devices like the grigri instead of tacking on spam type posts to this thread. It isn't even close to the size or function of the Mega Jul |
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DrApnea wrote: franck: Maybe you should start a new thread with details on your belay device and inform us on how the device works, what testing it has passed, and how it is better or different than other mechanical devices like the grigri instead of tacking on spam type posts to this thread. It isn't even close to the size or function of the Mega JulIt´s been around a few years now on the internet, the function is more or less the same as the Hewbolt. |
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Scarpa (the U.S. distributor for Edelrid) sent me a new device under warranty. |
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Happened again today. |
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Kai Larson wrote:These Edelrid devices are not yet ready for prime time.I agree. Mine is permanently retired. It is finicky about ropes and carabiners and has the potential for failure. It's not worth the hassle. |
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Perhaps you'll consider using a caribiner with your next replacement? |
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Patrick Mulligan wrote:As another update, I connected with a rep for Edelrid this summer regarding the fact that my Jul was gouging my carabiners pretty badly. They are aware of the issue and plan on releasing a SS Belay biner next year that will address the issue completely.So I have heard that this device will scratch up a belay biner considerably, but gouge? Do you mean worse than a scratch? Anyone have photos of a biner with some mileage when used in conjunction with a Mega/Micro Jul? I'd be willing to use an extra biner to rap/lower with this device in order to prevent the damn thumb loop from breaking, but if it's gonna wreck my belay biner anyways then to hell with it. |
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Ray Pinpillage wrote:Perhaps you'll consider using a caribiner with your next replacement?Why? Edelrid show the correct way to lower a leader is with the thumb loop. |