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Aid routes in AZ

Original Post
Ryan Myers · · Tempe, AZ · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 2,736

I am interested in getting some info on aid lines throughout az. There is not much to be found on the MP database. Any routes come to mind? thanks

Sean Tropsa · · Draper, UT · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 20

I don't aid climb but I know there are at least a few aid lines at camelback and in sedona. Check out the Marty map for camelback or one of the sedona guide books for info.

EJN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 248

Check out the steep side of Baboquivari, looks like some hairball stuff out there.

There's also a line on granite mountain, I think called Oogie Boogie Boo through the great roof.

I'm sure there's some heinous A4 line up some granite dome waiting for you in southern AZ.

Ryan Myers · · Tempe, AZ · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 2,736

thanks for the response. off the top of my head i know of a few A3/A4 unpublished routes done by Ron Raimonde in sedona, the roof on the praying monk, the roof on the goosehead down on lemmon, a few thin seams on Pinnacle Peak, and some hard routes on Babo. Ive never done any of them but would love to check some them out soon. Any one else got any info to contribute?

Sean Tropsa · · Draper, UT · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 20

just checked the map for ya for camelback, it shows sewery roof, forrest roof and 6 other various air routes with a seventh unfinished route at camelback that might be worth checking out if you want something already established. There are also a couple of grade 3/4 aid/free routes in sedona listed in castles in the sand that are probably a bit off the beaten path... i know there is a "practice" air route on the big boulder below Morrell's Wall Parking lot area in the mcdowells, i guess its supposed to be "2" pitches for practice, not sure why exactly its there... its about 40 feet tall though.

Wiled Horse · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,669

couple more Sedona ones:
mountainproject.com/v/a-m-a…
mountainproject.com/v/all-s…

Apparently there is also Equinox in West Fork, if you can find it. Long way in there.

Ryan Myers · · Tempe, AZ · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 2,736

really cool. thanks for the contributions. going to add these to my todo list and start checking em out.

Eric D · · Gnarnia · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 235

All Systems Go (which Darren just posted) would be a lot of fun to aid. If you do it, please drop the fixed line that is on the 3rd pitch. If you don't want to carry it out (which would be awesome), just leave it at the base and I'll get it. Thanks.

Ryan Myers · · Tempe, AZ · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 2,736

yes that route does sound awesome. thanks darren.Eric, When i make it up there ill drop the line and let you know what i do with it. thanks guys

Wiled Horse · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,669

Hey ryan if youre willing to go as far as cleaning up our mess, along with my crusty fixed line, i have a few fixed nuts and other hardwares that could be cleaned too.. Thanks!! Couple of fresh bolts on p1 belay of epitaph now too. Great adventure up there! If you have a hard time ropin in a partner for it, like i do, i'd do it with you.

JMayhew · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Sep 2006 · Points: 1,186

There is a 5 pitch 5.9 A.3 (mostly aid) line up the backside of Elephant Dome in Mendoza shownhere.

Also a 5 pitch 5.9 A.2 shown here on the left of the photo that has 2 free pitches leading to 3 pitches of aid.

PM me if you're interested in details.

jeff

Paul Davidson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 607

Wasp and Evil Eye in Sabino, although both have gone free.
As long as you're doing Cx aid climbing, I don't see how folks could complain.

Oggie Boggie Boo at Grnt Mnt looks wild. Rurp crack i believe.
I've never heard of a second of it.

The Good the Bad and the Ugly now goes free at 12- (?) but again, if you nut it, who cares.

Klondike Wall, After the Gold Rush, I believe is still an aid climb.

As are the east face routes on Babo.
If you want to aid climb, A3/A4 and up, that's the place.
These are wall climbs, not day climbs.

King Crimson in Sedona is fun aid climb, 3 pitches.
I know the first was being worked free on a TR, not sure if ever completed.

The Dong in Sedona is a good aid climb, although Grossman did free the aid pitch on a TR. It will take some crafty nutting to do the pitch, even on aid. No spoilers from me but it went clean but Larry Coats had to make two trips to do it so it's a good challenge to overcome.
All Systems Go looks great.

And of course the Mushroom in Sedona. Not sure if it's had many ascents.

Jimbo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 1,310

Paul,

Tim Dolan and I freed the original route on the mushroom shortly after it went up. Seems like it was only 10+.

A few months later I joined Dave DesChamps and Tim on Humongous Fungus the aid route they had started on the right side of the Mushroom.

I freed the pitches up to the knife blade corner on TR at 5.11. This was C2 on lead, so gear is adequate.

The knife blade corner up to the hanging belay on the right edge of the roof is probably free climbable but not while your pounding in skinny blades. It would be insanely hard stemming with nothing but friction for holds.

The last pitch Tim lead free at 10d R with the Bosche on his hip. A fall before he got the first bolt drilled would have resulted in a 30 footer out over the roof and into space. Watching in the hanging belay with Dave I'm was probably more nervous than Tim.

Eric D · · Gnarnia · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 235

Ryan - we got that fixed line cleaned up but thanks anyway. Regardless, it would be a good aid climb.

Ryan Myers · · Tempe, AZ · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 2,736

Again thanks for the contributions and great info everybody. Glad to see this thread still being commented on.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Arizona & New Mexico
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