Do I suck at climbing cracks because I pull on plastic too much?

The trick that helped me with cracks is to remember to pull outward on jams. This does not seem to be intuitive for most people, they treat a hand jam like a normal flat handhold and pull mostly down. When you lean out on a jam, it torques your feet into the rock and makes footholds better.

My buddy told me on my first crack: "the more it hurts the more it works"

Shave your hands if you're gonna be taping a lot, that's the most painful for me, ripping the tape off, lol.

Google sonnie trotter crack machine too, you can learn everything from fists to ring locks in the comfort of your own home.

Also when you're on TR try and find rests and mock placing gear, it's really fucking hard at first.

MRock wrote:My buddy told me on my first crack: "the more it hurts the more it works"

It can definitely be painful, but minimize the pain or you won't be able to crack climb for a few days while you heal. Practice using just the right ammount of hand and foot jams to be secure. Not over jamming is more energy effecient also.

For better foot jamming, do some yoga poses that focus on hip flexibility.

Straight arm hangs gives you more miles per pump, but keep tension on your shoulders to minimize shoulder strain or injury.

1st off I'm the worst crack climber and you can fight me for that title. 2nd I was told the back of your hand is for discipline and not climbing..J/K..I built a crack machine which is adjustable and I use my cams to adjust it to the size I struggle at. For example the BD #1 size I struggle with because of my fat hands but I can cruze the #2 and #3. Anything lower than a #1 is considered aid to me lol. Anyways just practice. Find what you suck at and practive till you dont suck as bad.

If you have any bouldering areas near you with crack "problems" that is a decent way to learn as we'll (assuming it is a jamming problem and not some other shenanigans). Obviously climbing crack routes outdoors is ideal but you already know that..

Matt N wrote:I suck at pulling on plastic because I climb cracks too much.

Yes

I have a lot of friends who are great face climbers outdoors and even better climbers on plastic. I personally excel at crack climbing and flail on face routes. Whenever they ask me how to get better at crack climbing I have one answer that is absolutely guaranteed to help their technique:

Come to Indian Creek with me for a week. You will leave a proficient crack climber.

Without a doubt. A week spent top roping crack climbs in Indian Creek will make you a proficient crack climber. All the suggestions of crack boulder problems, crack machines, gym cracks, etc, while good advice, won't do 10% the amount of good a trip to the Creek will.

PS: Google maps says it's an 18 hour drive from Madison, WI to Moab, Utah. You should get a group of people together and go there for spring break or something,

Jason Halladay wrote:Make sure you're not trying to foot jam cracks with the same shoes you're using in the gym. Shoes that are more comfortable to jam in make a big difference in your enjoyment, and thus proficiency, with crack climbing.

Lace ups or slip ons, none of the velcro strap models, they are like torture in a beginner size crack. Also the shoe must not be too tight. Your foot should lay flat in the shoe or its going to hurt like hell too. A crack shoe is typically one size bigger than a sport climbing shoe.

The Blueprint Part Dank wrote: Come to Indian Creek with me for a week. You will leave a proficient crack climber.

Or quit climbing forever. One of the two. My brain tell me that when I jam my foot in a thin crack then twist the heck out of it and stand on it, all 79 bones in my feet are going to break. Definitely start out with what is comfortable to your foot.