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Where to climb in the Southeast when it's raining?

Original Post
Ryan Watts · · Bishop, CA · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 25

I'm back home (Atlanta) for the holidays and was hoping to get out and do some climbing this weekend with some of my old climbing buddies. I was pretty stoked for some good old SE climbing after being away for a while, but unfortunately it looks like all my old favorite spots are going to be pretty damp this upcoming weekend. When I lived here I mostly just climbed moderate trad and if it rained we just waited for another weekend, but since I'm only here for a short while I'd really like to get out if at all possible.

So my question is: is there anywhere in the southeast to climb when it rains?

The only place I can think of that might be overhung enough is LRC but I've never climbed there during the rain so I don't really know. Ideally I'd like to climb trad (up to 5.10a/b or so) but overhanging sport and/or bouldering seems like it might be the ticket given the weather.

Any recommendations?

Jonathan Dull · · Boone, NC · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 415
mountainproject.com/v/north…

Parts of this place will stay dry for sure, mainly between Invisible Airways and Creatures of Waste.

It's also some of the best climbing the Southeast as well.

mountainproject.com/v/invis… The first pitch of this will be dry and is super awesome. Not to be missed. Not to mention when you top out you get chill on the best ledge in the SE. You will stay dry even if it's pouring.

mountainproject.com/v/creat… The first pitch of this climb is one of the best pitches of climbing I've ever been on. Highly recommended!! It will be dry for a bit but may start to seep after prolonged rain.
BirminghamBen · · Birmingham, AL · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 1,620

TNF of Looking Glass, SW Corner of Whitesides, Little River Canyon.

jack powers · · St. Paul, Mn · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 25

Unless it has been raining enough for seepage, the Stephen King Library will probably be dry. mountainproject.com/v/steph…

HP40 dries as soon as the sun comes out- no soil and vegetation on top of most boulders to trap water. mountainproject.com/v/horse…. Seriously this place dries fast.

If you are into more adventure climbing, apparently many routes under the massive roofs of Big South Fork stay dry, but I've never been there. mountainproject.com/v/big-s…

Brad Caldwell · · Deep in the Jocassee Gorges · Joined May 2010 · Points: 1,400

Please dont climb on sandstone until it is completely dry...I have seen permanant damage to routes at various sandstone boulderfields by folks getting overzealous and climbing at areas that "dry as soon as the sun comes out", specifically at HP40, LRC and Lilly.

WDW4 Weatherford · · Houston · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 176

Fortress Wall in the Red River Gorge has several dry routes. 2 min approach from the road. LINK

jack powers · · St. Paul, Mn · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 25
Brad Caldwell wrote:Please dont climb on sandstone until it is completely dry...I have seen permanant damage to routes at various sandstone boulderfields by folks getting overzealous and climbing at areas that "dry as soon as the sun comes out", specifically at HP40, LRC and Lilly.
Brad, thanks for the caveat. I agree completely, and its always good to remind us of this. While we're at it, IMO steel brushes (b/c of erosion) and nylon brushes (b/c of glazing) are inappropriate for sandstone (except maybe initial cleaning by FA party), and carefully cleaning your shoes before getting on sandstone and avoiding soft or eroded footholds will help prevent the "rub-outs" that have impacted problems at, e.g., HP40.
Tom Caldwell · · Clemson, S.C. · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 3,623

Cathy's Creek in Brevard is another good option.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
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