Adding/moving bolts at Stone Mountain NC

Don't add bolts to existing routes. Get better, bolder, or take up tennis or golf.

I got in over my head and got scared on entrance crack bitd. It will put the feer in you, and I think that is a good thing. The peron who gets scared on EC will know better than to jump on mercury's thinking its "just" a 9. Though, I did jump on great white way pretty early. But I knew just what to expect.

An additional bolt(s) should not be added to the Entrance Crack. Alternative routes are available, including those that are better protected than EC. For the first-time visitor to Stone, the run-out section is an easy introduction to what awaits above.

Regarding making climbs "safe" for the novice leader--bad idea. Part of learning to climb is gaining a realistic self-assessment of your own abilities, learning how to stay calm when things get run out, and knowing how to down climb when you have to. Adding bolts to established routes does not help accomplish these goals. It is far better to learn how to deal with a run-out 5.4 before attempting a harder climb that is even more run out.

I remember the same era as Todd - the 80's and 90's - when EC was routinely solo'ed by climbers wearing Teva sandals (they were trendy at the time) and usually a backpack as well. Most stone climbers simply met up on the tree ledge back then - I know it's kinda weird. Also, when we were learning to climb there (before climbing gyms) my brother and I both used to scare ourselves silly trying to lead that thing - in our five-tennies, and no big cams (they didn't exist). We were 11 years old at the time and didn't have real rock shoes, not that it would've mattered much. I must admit that it was not me that finally sacked up enough to lead that thing, it was my bro.

Anyway, sorry for further derailing your post Emil.

Now, back to the topic of placing a bolt on Orange Blossom Special. I would be for it if the dying of the tree limb were a relatively recent occurrence, but I don't believe it is. Even the TK guide shows it as unprotected, so I'm thinking that the mentioning of that in the Select was just for the sake of historical posterity. I personally cannot recall ever seeing a limb over there.

Yeah the thread has drifted a bit Nathan. The way it drifted is probably relevant to the original question though.

The main reason I could see for adding a bolt would be to restore the line to it's original condition. It would still be seriously runout but not X rated anymore.

On the flip side I can see a couple of reasons for not adding it. The first as you mention is how long it's been like this. Tradition matters and for a lot of people it's always been a solo. The second, which was raised by one of the FA party is that even if adding a bolt is justified on Orange Blossom it might lead to people wanting to add them to other routes where it was not. And I think we can see that happening in this thread with the discussion of EC.

I admit to being surprised by this. The difference between the two routes seems clear to me but apparently not to everyone. Given that, I'm coming to the conclusion that adding the bolt would not be advisable.

Orange Blossom never had protection to my knowledge, tree branch or otherwise. A potential grounder was the deal if you wanted to do the climb, so, I would be against bolting it. The climb is a mental test piece and we need those. The whole point of slab climbing is mind control it seems to me.

Todd Wells wrote:Orange Blossom never had protection to my knowledge, tree branch or otherwise. A potential ground was the deal if you wanted to do the climb, so, no, Orange Blossom should not be emasculated to make it accessible to the risk-averse climber. The climb has always been a mental test piece and is certainly not for everybody. Celebrate that. To bolt it would mean that you're merely "playing Russian Roulette with a squirt gun"--Rich Gottlieb. The whole point of slab climbing is mind control after all.

I'm sure you're right Emil. But I did the climb in the mid-1980's and there was no tree branch for protection then.

I think it went up in 1979 so if the tree was down by 1985 it explains why so few people remember it.

I will be passing though NC this weekend, and as a former regular at Stone, feel like a heads up is appropriate. In my mind there are about a dozen routes that could use additional bolts but honestly if I can develop just few of them this weekend I'll be happy.

I'm not doing this so sport climbers that can't place gear can send!

Right now I'm planning on placing one bolt on Strawberry Preserves to replace the branch that could be slung, one on Rainy Day Women about halfway up to the first set of anchors, and one on Captain Crunch about halfway to where the first bolt is now.

Entrance Crack will not be bolted!

Matthew Blevin wrote:I will be passing though NC this weekend, and as a former regular at Stone, feel like a heads up is appropriate. In my mind there are about a dozen routes that could use additional bolts but honestly if I can develop just few of them this weekend I'll be happy. I'm not doing this so sport climbers that can't place gear can send! Right now I'm planning on placing one bolt on Strawberry Preserves to replace the branch that could be slung, one on Rainy Day Women about halfway up to the first set of anchors, and one on Captain Crunch about halfway to where the first bolt is now. Entrance Crack will not be bolted!

Not trolling. Long time follower of MP, first time poster. Contributing to the thread required me to register.

Obviously trolling. Hypothetically, why would you waste money on bolts that will be chopped ten minutes after you drill them?

So a few of us can lead those routes and not die if we fall. If someone comes along and chops the next day, that's ok.

EDIT: It's only a few bucks. Not like I'm putting up 100s of them.

Whatever dude. You'd just be permanently damaging the rock. Climb something else, rap in, and set up a top rope. That't what I did before leading Mercury and other routes in the middle of the South Face.

Matthew Blevin wrote:Not trolling. Long time follower of MP, first time poster. Contributing to the thread required me to register.

I think the obvious solution is to put an old rusty 1/4" button head with a cracked keeper hanger where the branch was; then everyone would be happy! You would have a bolt to clip, but you would still be free soloing, win win

Weather looks good all week Matt... Meet up soon?

I was there Sunday. Don't worry, I didn't bolt anything.

Matthew Blevin wrote:I didn't bolt anything.