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Paul Wilhelmsen
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Dec 16, 2013
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sandy, ut
· Joined Aug 2012
· Points: 231
Where do you like to go when it's above freezing and you are dying to get on some real rock? What crags? Which climbs especially? I'm looking for inspiration; it seems like most times I end up climbing at the upper s-curves; it's a bit of a slog, but it always seems like the warmest, dryest and least windy crag in BCC.
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M Mobley
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Dec 16, 2013
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Bar Harbor, ME
· Joined Mar 2006
· Points: 911
Mexican crack & the bongeater
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Donovan Allen
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Dec 16, 2013
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Soft Lake City
· Joined May 2012
· Points: 356
I always found left fork in maple to be great winter climbing. All that south facing stuff on orangutan wall can warm up nicely with a bit of sun. I'm with mjmobes for lcc. Ever tried barefoot in Barbados ? Great ruckman slab route.
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tenesmus
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Dec 16, 2013
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Jan 2004
· Points: 3,023
The approach is snowy but the rock on Bumblebee and Psychobable is dry. If you want to go without a coat, Aquaworld is chossy but dry and fully in right now. You could maybe follow the sun at Aquaduct. Margin for Air is dry and in. Second on Crescent Crack and the Egg. Lizard Head is in. This time of year you often need to wear showshoes on the approaches to take the sting out of postholing with a pack. Not mandatory with the lower elevation snowpack, but nice.
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Paul Wilhelmsen
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Dec 16, 2013
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sandy, ut
· Joined Aug 2012
· Points: 231
Thanks guys, thats a lot of great ideas. I'm gonna try to talk my partner into sluffing enough school to do em all over the winter, lol. DoN - no I haven't tried it, but I'll definitely look into it. Now all I need is someone desperate enough to rock climb in the cold with me. Anyone out there reading this and itching to get out, pm me, and we can meet up sometime
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Donovan Allen
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Dec 16, 2013
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Soft Lake City
· Joined May 2012
· Points: 356
Word Paul. Be careful this season! I don't want to see anymore flappers happen to you due to slippery conditions. Maybe you can be the first to develop the sport of deep snow free soloing? Hmmm.
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josh holmes
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Dec 16, 2013
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Sep 2008
· Points: 215
FYI Paul, the orangutang wall in maple is not conductive to rock climbing during the winter. It does however host a beaut of an ice route called get whacked. If you have to climb on rock in maple this winter try the eco-terrorist wall near the mouth of the canyon. But as far as sunny rock for winter climbing along the wasatch look no further than Ogden's Schoolroom Wall. Some of the best quartzite you'll ever climb, i.e. BCC will seem like choss after climbing here. +1 for the bongeater and environs -1 for the s-turns, upper is ok but seriously check out Schoolroom Wall + 1/2 for the aqueduct +1 for AF routes on the north side high up above the road I am crazy enough to climb all winter long. i live down by maple and have a whack schedule. PM me if you'd like to try to get out
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M L
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Dec 16, 2013
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Sonora, CA
· Joined Apr 2007
· Points: 165
good list. the jobsite area in lower rockcanyon can be warm in the sun too
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CareBear M
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Dec 17, 2013
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Worcester, MA
· Joined Jun 2011
· Points: 0
Are you looking for sport specifically or anything? Really anything south-facing in LCC can be great on a sunny day. Green A, Schoolroom, gate A stuff, gets ya a little bit further from our lovely smog...
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rging
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Dec 17, 2013
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Salt Lake City, Ut
· Joined Jul 2011
· Points: 210
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Kevin Hansen
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Dec 17, 2013
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Melba Idaho
· Joined Apr 2008
· Points: 130
Yesterday went to the City of Rocks looking for some ice to climb, but I wish I'd a taken a partner and a rope instead of sharp stuff. Temps were wonderful, down right t-shirt and jeans weather. Sure there is snow drifts, but regional snow levels are about 3 inches. Roads are fine. I spoke to Brad Shilling and he said that this year is super dry, and not cold enough to grow ice. That said, the rock at the City is real nice for climbing. On a sunny day, I'd climb Elephant Rock, Parking Lot Rock East, or Bread Loaves East in the morning. Then finish the afternoon off with Decadent Wall, Site 18, or West side of Bath Rock.
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Paul Wilhelmsen
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Dec 18, 2013
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sandy, ut
· Joined Aug 2012
· Points: 231
Ha thanks guys for all the great ideas. Rging, not looking for sport specifically, tho my chances are better there. Kevin, COR hadn't even crossed my mind. Thanks man. Course as it goes with Murphy and his laws. 12 hours after I posted this I started getting sick. I have missed a little work but as soon as I'm better again ill hit up all you who pm'd me. Thanks all
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