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It's a Breeze
5.10+ YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 20 ZA E3 5b British PG13
Avg: 2.5 from 4
votes
Routes in Flying Buttress
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A-M aidline T A2-3 |
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All Systems Go 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Anvil Spire North Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Arch Enemy T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Epitaph T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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It's a Breeze T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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Queen's Bishop T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Technicolor Corner T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Dow Davis, Tim Steffan, 1989 |
| Page Views: | 1,402 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Zach Harrison on Dec 2, 2012 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
A good climb up the West nose of the Flying Buttress. Worth doing if in the neighborhood doing Technicolor Corner or Epitaph.
First pitch climbs a right facing dihedral with a very nice finger crack to a awkward roof, belay on limestone band from gear or rappel equipment 5.11-, 100 feet.
Second pitch climbs up crack to a large chimmney, Belay from bolts on left 5.10 PG 13, 80 feet.
One could continue to the top of the Flying Buttress via low angled terrain, but the climbing quality will deterioriate.
First pitch climbs a right facing dihedral with a very nice finger crack to a awkward roof, belay on limestone band from gear or rappel equipment 5.11-, 100 feet.
Second pitch climbs up crack to a large chimmney, Belay from bolts on left 5.10 PG 13, 80 feet.
One could continue to the top of the Flying Buttress via low angled terrain, but the climbing quality will deterioriate.
Location
It's a Breeze is just left of Technicolor Corner, above the saddle between the Flying Buttress and Tea Pot. Look for a clean right facing corner that ends in a roof below the limestone band. There is a left facing corner just left of It's a Breeze that you can toprope from gear just left of the the limestone belay. It's fun 5.10+ , but a suspect flake makes a lead a serious affair.
Protection
Trad rack with nuts, TCU's, cams to BD#4. Many fingers size on P1. Rap with one rope, a 60M might be long enough, we had a 70M. Chimney on pitch 2 essentially unprotected without a huge cam, but pretty easy, ~5.8. Pitch 1 has a fixed nut and thread for a rap anchor, Pitch 2 has 2 bolts with quick links for a rap anchor.
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