Type: Trad, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Gib Lewis & Charles Cole, December 1979
Page Views: 1,202 total · 5/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jan 3, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description Suggest change

This line starts to the left of the moderate cracks on the south end of the west face known as Ranger JB and Ranger JD.

The line starts to the left of these and rises up and right on increasingly difficult terrian to where the crack runs out. There are 3 choices, and in increasing order of difficulty they are:

A) 5.10b: From a tiny pod in the crack where a hand-sized cam can be fidgeted, abandon the seam and climb directly up to a horizontal and traverse from there to the right to gain a well protected handcrack to finish.

B) 5.10d: From that pod, crimp out and right on bad feet to reach a spot where a single very long move can be made directly up to the same horizontal. Your pro is a bit below you and is only so-so. A fall would be exciting.

C) 5.11?: Continue directly in the seam on crumbling rock up and right directly to the bottom of the leaning handcrack up top. Holds are popping off, adding to the difficulty. Your pro is some distance down and left and is not that great. Hope the holds you grabbed are good.

Belay as for the other routes on this end of the rock and descend by rapping from summit anchors.

Protection Suggest change

Without proper attention to protection, someone might get hurt on this line. Pro is available, but it is tricky and strenuous to place. This is not a route to test limits on.1 set of nuts, + cams to 3".

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