Anything wrong with this PAS?
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I came up with a personal anchor that I like and seems to work for me, but I wanted you guys to have a look at it and tell me it's safe enough. |
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Absolute overkill! Use it in the field and you'll see why. It's going to be a clusterfuck. LESS IS MORE... |
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It's awkward, bulky, and overkill everywhere except for its master point. You have redundancy built in, yet your master point is a single strand, attached to another single point (your belay loop). You do not need a PAS. You certainly do not need this monstrous PAS. Will you die? No, probably not. Is it a good system? No. |
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Fun - another PAS thread. It's been a while. Kicking my feet up and watching the action... |
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So just use a sling is the consensus? |
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I don't have a problem with the idea, but there are better ways to do this, say with like a double runner girthed through your tie in points with a super 8 on it, or the two dozen opinions you are sure to get in this thread. XTRA Bonus: you won't have to tie stopper knots to backup your overhands (I admit I have never seen that before!) |
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Just using a sling (or two) is an option but not necessarily the best of all possible solutions. I'm one of those folks who think a PAS installed on the harness and ready to go at all times has value. I do think yours is too specialized, however. |
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Too Bulky, stick to manufactured PAS backed up by lead rope. |
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Far more then you would ever need. I think two nylon slings girth hitched to your tie in points with locker on each is plenty. |
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Fred 4 wrote:So just use a sling is the consensus?Yup, Although I do appreciate the attempt at custom climbing gear. Sometimes the best thing out there isn't off the shelf and requires a little work. This doesn't seem to be one of them yet. |
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This post violated Rule #1. It has been removed by Mountain Project.
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your setup is absolutely and utterly fine for a rappel safety ... the only issue is the bulk |
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I enjoy my purcell prusik (look it up), but I always clove in with the climbing rope as my primary tie in. Its all that is needed if you are swapping leads. |
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Adam Paashaus wrote:I enjoy my purcell prusik (look it up), but I always clove in with the climbing rope as my primary tie in. Its all that is needed if you are swapping leads.This. Clove in with the rope, while climbing. Use one or two double-length nylon slings while rapping. Nothing extra needed. |
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Fred 4 wrote:So just use a sling is the consensus?No...as mentioned above...just use the climbing rope is the consensus. Stronger, easier, dynamic. |
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A caver would call this a cows tail. It is used for vertical work pretty much as you described. It might be seen as overkill for climbing, since a pas weighs less and has more tie/clip in points. I have brought something like this for aiding, but found a daisy more friendly because it has so many more clip options. |
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Keep it simple!!! For multi pitch each person ties in to each end of the rope. You never untie from this! You also have a ling sling (I usually use a double length but you can Use anything longer) girth hitched to your harness with a locking biner on the end. When you reach the anchor, build it, then clip your sling into the anchor. Next clove hitch your rope to the anchor, this is now adjustable from right next to the anchor to the length of your sling. I will try to show later a picture. |
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Tyler Newcomb wrote:Keep it simple!!! For multi pitch each person ties in to each end of the rope. You never untie from this! You also have a ling sling (I usually use a double length but you can Use anything longer) girth hitched to your harness with a locking biner on the end. When you reach the anchor, build it, then clip your sling into the anchor. Next clove hitch your rope to the anchor, this is now adjustable from right next to the anchor to the length of your sling. I will try to show later a picture.Quicker setup: build the anchor, clove your rope to the masterpoint with a locker. Done. No need for the sling in this scenario. It's pointlessly redundant and limiting. |
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VaGenius wrote:My experience...has convinced me that there are two distinct types of climbers: those who use their minds to eliminate clutter, clusterfuckery, and excess weight from their harnesses and racks, and those who carry triple or more of what they really need to theoretically at some point use this ballast and therefore justify its bulk and general uselessness.I'm not in either of those groups. I routinely carry and use a PAS. I explained above why it has a broad range of multiple uses, most of which speed up some aspect of multipitch trad climbing. The idea goes back to that international master of excess weight and custerfuckery, Mark Twight, who recommends the technique in Extreme Alpinism. It appears that Twight is in your mindless group along with me, company I'm happy to be keeping. You can, of course, put an PAS on an idiot and you'll still have an idiot, but it isn't the PAS that made them an idiot. There are legitimate uses for the thing, and the failure of certain individuals to understand those uses doesn't change that. |
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VaGenius wrote:You mistook what I was saying.Fair enough, and apologies for the snarkiness. By the way, I and I think others have taken to using PAS as a generic term for a "strong daisy." In fact, I use a Chain Reactor as you do. |
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VaGenius wrote:You mistook what I was saying. First, I'm a huge Twight fan, second, I have a Chain Reactor on both of my regular use harnesses. I meant no disrespect, which I thought came thru in my clove+PAS closing statement (your honor). My point above was that complicating things PAST a PAS and a clove is virtually always a timewasting obfuscation and an impediment to efficient movement. My Reactors speed things up, are strong and adjustable, and don't hang up on protrusions. All the cord and loop the loops seem snag prone, bulky, and questionably safer. I enjoy your posts and find your perspectives well thought out and expressed for the most part. Check out the Chain Reactor sometime when your PAS is up for replacement; I like mine a lot more than the dyneema models.ive used the PAS for years in fact i only retired it at the start of this year since it was 5 years old and used almost daily a regular sling tied with overhands ... or a 8mm cord with butterfly loops will do everything a PAS will do and is not much bulkier ... it is however substantially cheaper ... and can serve a variety of purposes such as cheap bail anchors as to snagging ... the PAS snags just as well as anything else ... i used it for years leading trad and it snags on cams, on features, etc ... honestly ... i simply could no longer justify spending 30$ on a single use item ... if i need a "PAS" ill just take that 120 cm nylon sling which i have anyways and tie 2 overhands in it ... or for actual fall protection use a short length of dyamic rope with knots in the middle ... ;) |