Continue with onX Maps
Continue with Facebook
Routes in Glenwood Canyon Ice
|
Alcatraz T M11 |
|
|
Deep Throat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a WI5-6 M7 |
|
Glenwood Falls - Left / Right / Center WI4-5 |
|
|
Glenwood Falls Far Right WI4-5 |
|
|
Hidden Falls WI4-5 |
|
|
Hidden Falls (Secret 4th Pitch) WI4 |
|
|
Leftmost Corner at Hidden Falls WI5+ M5+ |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Ice, 300 ft (91 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 2,245 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Julian Smith on Dec 24, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2020 and on access issues
Details
Per Michael Schneiter: it's worth noting that access to climbs in Glenwood Canyon is difficult to impossible currently. Following this summer's Grizzly Creek fire the exits and rest areas for Grizzly Creek, Shoshone and Hanging Lake have been and remain closed. The bike path is also closed. That leaves climbers with no great option for parking and climbing Hidden Falls, Glenwood Falls and the others. There may be some workarounds, but they aren't easy.
Description
This ice climb lies in a gully system that is to the right of the main Glenwood Falls flow. It sneaks up a series of slabs and gullies for 3 to 4 enjoyable pitches, finishing with a short but steep pillar. Overall, this is an enjoyable route to climb, especially if the main Glenwood Falls is not on your agenda.
To access the climb, you must first reach the Hanging Lake exit (125), which is 8.9 miles east of Glenwood Springs on I-70. The only option for taking this exit is for eastbound traffic, so if you are coming from the east, drive past the Hanging Lake rest area, and continue west to the Grizzly Creek rest area, where you can turn around and drive back east through the canyon to take the exit for Hanging Lake.
If the directions seem complicated, locating the climb is not. All of Glenwood Falls is in full view from the road! So, it is really easy to see if conditions look likely enough to bother hiking up to the base.
After parking in the rest area, simply walk west towards the rest area exit, hop over the concrete barrier, and start hiking up hill where it suits you. The approach is predominantly over a talus slope with a little scrub oak thrown in for good measure. It might take 20 to 30 minutes at the most to hike from the car to the base of Glenwood Falls.
This climb is to the right of the main flow of Glenwood Falls. From the base of the falls, look to the right and locate a sliver of ice cascading down a gully about 60 meters to the right of the main flow.
The first pitch has a steeper start, and then kicks back to rolling humps to reach a nice ledge with a sling anchor threaded through some rocks at about 40 meters or so. The second pitch works up an ice-covered slab/left-facing dihedral that varies from 70 to 90 degrees, which ends at a small ledge; another short, steep section above leads to the base of a gully. Climb up the gully, veering right to a tree that has an obvious sling anchor. This might be a 35-meter or so lead up to the tree. From there, continue to scramble up the steeping gully to the base of a sweet pillar for the final pitch. Crank the pillar, and head upwards to the left, finishing in a left-facing dihedral. Once you are above the dihedral, look to the right for a tree with an anchor sling. It is about 25 meters or so to the tree.
This is a climb that might be better climbed with a single rope. This is because the rappels are shorter, and would seem more problematic with two ropes rather than one. Start the descent by rappelling from the tree with slings at the top of the route. Once you are at the end of the rope, down climb the gully until you can reach another obvious tree with slings. Again rappel straight down, through some brush until you are once again in the bottom of the gully. Look back up the gully to locate another tree with slings on it. This tree might be a little hidden, so be sure to look up into the gully for the tree. Another rappel gets you back to the ledge with the slings threaded through the rock. From here, it is a short rappel back to the base of the route.
Enjoy.
To access the climb, you must first reach the Hanging Lake exit (125), which is 8.9 miles east of Glenwood Springs on I-70. The only option for taking this exit is for eastbound traffic, so if you are coming from the east, drive past the Hanging Lake rest area, and continue west to the Grizzly Creek rest area, where you can turn around and drive back east through the canyon to take the exit for Hanging Lake.
If the directions seem complicated, locating the climb is not. All of Glenwood Falls is in full view from the road! So, it is really easy to see if conditions look likely enough to bother hiking up to the base.
After parking in the rest area, simply walk west towards the rest area exit, hop over the concrete barrier, and start hiking up hill where it suits you. The approach is predominantly over a talus slope with a little scrub oak thrown in for good measure. It might take 20 to 30 minutes at the most to hike from the car to the base of Glenwood Falls.
This climb is to the right of the main flow of Glenwood Falls. From the base of the falls, look to the right and locate a sliver of ice cascading down a gully about 60 meters to the right of the main flow.
The first pitch has a steeper start, and then kicks back to rolling humps to reach a nice ledge with a sling anchor threaded through some rocks at about 40 meters or so. The second pitch works up an ice-covered slab/left-facing dihedral that varies from 70 to 90 degrees, which ends at a small ledge; another short, steep section above leads to the base of a gully. Climb up the gully, veering right to a tree that has an obvious sling anchor. This might be a 35-meter or so lead up to the tree. From there, continue to scramble up the steeping gully to the base of a sweet pillar for the final pitch. Crank the pillar, and head upwards to the left, finishing in a left-facing dihedral. Once you are above the dihedral, look to the right for a tree with an anchor sling. It is about 25 meters or so to the tree.
This is a climb that might be better climbed with a single rope. This is because the rappels are shorter, and would seem more problematic with two ropes rather than one. Start the descent by rappelling from the tree with slings at the top of the route. Once you are at the end of the rope, down climb the gully until you can reach another obvious tree with slings. Again rappel straight down, through some brush until you are once again in the bottom of the gully. Look back up the gully to locate another tree with slings on it. This tree might be a little hidden, so be sure to look up into the gully for the tree. Another rappel gets you back to the ledge with the slings threaded through the rock. From here, it is a short rappel back to the base of the route.
Enjoy.
4 Comments