Rappelling on accessory cord
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RobC2 wrote:Kids don't try this at home...Speaking of which, I've rappelled using a pair of core strands from a 10.something rope, which had a breaking strength just over body weight (for the pair of strands). 7mm accessory? Pfft. If you're gonna do it I might suggest finding a Reversino or making a custom small size Sticht plate. Or go even smaller (maybe 4mm) and use a biner wrap rappel. The key is to go as slow and smooth as possible. Another option would be one of the escape rigs from Yates... yatesgear.com/rescue/firere… |
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Actually, Patrick, come to think of it I've rapped on a single 7mm accessory cord quite a bunch while being too lazy to hike back around after setting a top rope that hangs over an edge. Basically I'd rig into the TR line with a tied-off rap device, and then tie one end of a spare cordalette to one of the anchor points. Then add a big HMS biner to the belay loop, tie a Munter and rap down until the TR line is loaded, at which point I undo the Munter and rap the TR line. Works a treat. |
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Rappelling on accessory cord or a single half rope can be very dangerous, and has caused some serious accidents. In the second edition of Self-Rescue in the Falcon Guide series there is an illustration that deals with that topic (Half Rope Rappels on a Single Strand). Essentially, the rappel device is first extended. Then, using a locking carabineer the rope is redirected to add more friction. An Autoblock backup is also placed in the system. Really need to be careful on the type of device you are using on the descent if choosing to rappel on a narrow rope or cord. |
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I bought edelrid 6mm rap cord (200M of it). Used a 40M piece on a long climb. Would sell the other 100M if anyone wants to buy. PM me if you do. |
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Wrap the cord once around the HMS. |
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I. Have. Never. |
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Oh, "accessory cord". I was thinking. . . ah, forget it. |
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One time I rappelled with two over-cooked spaghetti noodles tied together cause it was the only thing left in my emergency kit. |
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Picturing 2 overcooked spaghetti noodles clumped up in your empty "emergency kit". . . bwah! |
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Woodchuck ATC wrote:I use 7 or 8mm cord for an emergency chairlift evacuation rap rope. I have no trouble trusting a nice new piece of line that hasn't been dragged as a trail or haul line in any prior use. Clean and new, only saved for that last minute emergency rap off a chair when a breakdown leaves you hung up for an hour in a storm. Quick piece of 1 inch tubular web for a diaper sling, and a rap device of some sort and I'm set. Dont' think the local ski patrol would like me unweighting my chair and leaving on my own though.Immediately thought of this thread. ksl.com/?sid=28318351&nid=1… |
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Another enhanced friction possibility is the "super" or "monster" Munter hitch animatedknots.com/muntersuper/. |
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Locker wrote:"Rappelling on accessory cord" Great idea! Try using the 1mm. You get down REAL FAST!"Accessory cord" is probably the wrong term, I don't know exactly what distinguishes cord from rope from line, etc. But this is the same static cord I use for anchor building. |
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7mil is fat. Slow and smooth is the trick,and pay attention to all edges. I have a 5mil 200' rap line l use with a munter hitch. |
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Ages ago the fight between Majid and Angry was over rapping 35' on a 5' piece of rope. Turns out it's technically possible, but ill-advised. What would it take to put an end to this thread? A pair of 3mm cords? I no longer have the convenient tree to rap from, but if it means the end of this thread I'll find another one. |
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I've rapped on 6mm cord and a figure eight a few times. Sometimes I'll bring them and an Alp 95 harness on solo mountain traverses. I've never needed it when I've had it and I've always made do when I didn't... |
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It can work in a variety of ways as described by others, but if the rope is wet be extra careful and add as much friction as you can. A skinny wet rope is hard to control. |
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My feeling about rappelling on 7mm and thinner ropes, single or double, is that the process is highly dependent on both the particular rope and the particular device in question, as well as the weight of the rappeller, their grip strength, and the conditions, particularly if they are wet. If you happen to be on the wrong side of enough variables, you'll be lucky to survive. |
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Huh. That's a much more useful way of putting it, RGold. |
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For an emergency, you can use 7mm to do a short rap with. Use the super munter hitch, and add additional twists around the spine if needed. If you need even more friction, use two carabiners. I have rapped on 4mm on belay for a proof of concept test. With a super munter, you can pretty much rap on Dyneema. |
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Aric Datesman wrote:Ages ago the fight between Majid and Angry was over rapping 35' on a 5' piece of rope. Turns out it's technically possible, but ill-advised. What would it take to put an end to this thread? A pair of 3mm cords? I no longer have the convenient tree to rap from, but if it means the end of this thread I'll find another one. (useful contribution: Avoiding rap devices and Munters on knotted small cord is advised.... Instead use a biner wrap setup, as it won't catch on the knots)Basically , most rope contain 14-20 strands of 3-5mm Psize cord so I attached three strands of cord together via prusic knot and spaced them 10 inches apart while it was feeding thru ATC ,it was also wrapped 3-4 times in to a locking biner below to add additional friction. As I was rapping, one knot will pass in to biner and ATC and 10 inches later, next knot and so fort and I think I rapped 20-30 feet total. Again this was to demonstrate that in life and death situation, it is possible to rap on even 5mm cord. |