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Is it possible to rappel with single rope and be able to retrieve it at the bottom?

doug rouse · · Denver, CO. · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 660

I'm don't understand the use of the prussic..wouldn't that work the same without the cord, and just an eight through the hook-hole?

Eric Klammer · · Eagle, CO · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 2,070
doug rouse wrote:I'm don't understand the use of the prussic..wouldn't that work the same without the cord, and just an eight through the hook-hole?
I think the prussic is a length of shock cord. That way when the rope is unweighted the hook is automatically released from the anchor. That way the user doesn't have to repeatedly flick the rope in hopes of disengaging it.
Bang Nhan · · Charlottesville, VA · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 35
Cpwn wrote:I do a lot of canyoneering, and rock hooks are one of the sketchiest ways to rappel. You can use what's called a clove hitch rappel, just run one end through the quicklink, or other metal anchor, until there's enough rope to reach the bottom. Tie a clove hitch on the opposite side, and then clip a carabiner through it and the opposite line. Be sure to situate the clove hitch so it's on the spine of the carabiner, and also make sure the carabiner is locked. Clip into the line without the hitch, throw both lines, and rappel down. When you get down, pull the line that has the clove hitch on it, and it will all come down. Other more complicated methods include a deadman anchor using a weighted pack, macramé, or just a simple double line. If you use a deadman, only use a pack specifically designed for that purpose.
Thanks Cpwn, in the past two years, I learned that it's a more common practice in canyoneering than climbing. Thanks for clarifying it.
GLD · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 83

I'm not sure the video method would work if there was a lot of hanging rope weight or it went read several curves and had lots of drag on the rock. You might still have to flick the rope.

Most retrievable anchor set ups have a tag line(s): releasable potshots, fiddlestick, macrame, sandtrap.

I think the texan trick mentioned above is the only truly reliable method, though you might need a bunch of texans.

Tony B · · Around Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 24,665
GLD wrote: I think the texan trick mentioned above is the only truly reliable method, though you might need a bunch of texans.
Even one of them is too heavy. A second rope is much lighter... and better company.
randy88fj62 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2010 · Points: 291

Another canyoneering favorite for rope retrieval:

canyoneeringusa.com/techtip…

Odysseus · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 0

Hi guys.
I'm not a climber myself, but I just watched the movie "Thouching the void" with two crazy guys trying to climb to the top of a peruvian mountain (I guess most of you know about this apparently famous climb).
In several scenes in this movie a single guy abseils using a single rope in one line (not doubled) and with no accessory rope on the side, and I was thinking the exact same thing as the question posed above.
Is it really possible for the guy to retreive the rope again when he reach the bottom of his descend?
I'm still curios to the answer, and I'm not sure I've understood which tecnique they used (or maybe the movie is flawed?).
But just in defence of the dude who posed the question - asking isn't suicide - I wanted to know out of simple curiosity - I'm not going to some steep mountain side and trying it out for myself :)
Regards Kim, Denmark

rging · · Salt Lake City, Ut · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 210

You realize you were watching a movie and not the actual events, right?

Ryan Nevius · · Perchtoldsdorf, AT · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 1,837

And also a movie of an event that is controversial, and one in which people think that Mr. Rope Cutter was inexperienced and had better options. I'm not going to take sides, but that movie is a terrible educational resource.

mark felber · · Wheat Ridge, CO · Joined Jul 2005 · Points: 41
Odysseus wrote:Hi guys. I'm not a climber myself, but I just watched the movie "Thouching the void" with two crazy guys trying to climb to the top of a peruvian mountain (I guess most of you know about this apparently famous climb). In several scenes in this movie a single guy abseils using a single rope in one line (not doubled) and with no accessory rope on the side, and I was thinking the exact same thing as the question posed above. Is it really possible for the guy to retreive the rope again when he reach the bottom of his descend? I'm still curios to the answer, and I'm not sure I've understood which tecnique they used (or maybe the movie is flawed?). But just in defence of the dude who posed the question - asking isn't suicide - I wanted to know out of simple curiosity - I'm not going to some steep mountain side and trying it out for myself :) Regards Kim, Denmark
Kim, movie makers have a talent for getting the technical details about climbing wrong every chance they get. Every so often they get things so wrong that climbers go will see the movie over and over just to laugh at all the mistakes. "Cliffhanger", an early '90s movie starring Sylvester Stallone, is possibly the best example of this sort of thing. Sounds like "Touching the Void" is another good example.
BJB · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 195
Mike Lane wrote:Its actually quite easy. First, partner up with a Texan. Have him second you up to the top. Tie a nice, beefy figure 8 and rap off on the single line. Tell the Texan to untie it and drop it down. Voila! My version of the Texan Rope Trick. If you get a heavy conscious doing this, call his mom and tell her where he is.
I know the Texan trick is a joke, but if you are on a crowded route, it actually kind of works, and is usually the only time I do a full length rap with a single rope. If there is another party that is planning on walking off or doing the route in multiple rappels, you can rappel off a single line and then have them untie your rope from the anchors and drop it down to you.

The problems are obvious though: Make sure you know that your single rope is going to be long enough to get to the bottom, and you can't really count on another party being there.
Pete Spri · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 347

Just to add more canyoneering releasable rappel lines to this thread. I think this system is pretty sweet. I'd modify this set up with a hooded wiregate, likely a WC Helium.

Occam Releasable Anchor: youtube.com/watch?v=pfonpmE…

From this thread:
bogley.com/forum/showthread…

Nate K · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 240


Only use it for overhanging, very steep, or ice climbing rappels. it likes to get caught. in a pinch the tag line can be made of a bunch of girth hitched slings and cordalette. Good was to retrieve a rope if lowering an injured climber.
Pete Spri · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 347

Doing a 100m single line rap and passing a knot in order to rap far enough.

rging · · Salt Lake City, Ut · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 210

How many times do you have to be told the rules? Single strand, NO TAG LINE. Here's where the KISS principle comes in. Pass your rope through your anchor, do a biner block then clip you alpine pack to the biner. Rap full length and when you go off rope look up and catch the plummeting pack and rope. If you are good it will come right to you, if you aren't, let's hope you are on the ground.

saguaro sandy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 140
Tyler H wrote:He's just asking guys... Judging by his question, it seems he is thinking things through to their conclusion in all situations. There is no harm in asking. If he dies doing whatever, its his own damn fault. Thats the great thing about climbing. Seems like he is aware of this.
It's like that in LIFE, child. If you die doing whatever it's your own damn fault. Learn it now.
Brian in SLC · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Oct 2003 · Points: 21,711
rging wrote:How many times do you have to be told the rules? Single strand, NO TAG LINE. Here's where the KISS principle comes in. Pass your rope through your anchor, do a biner block then clip you alpine pack to the biner. Rap full length and when you go off rope look up and catch the plummeting pack and rope. If you are good it will come right to you, if you aren't, let's hope you are on the ground.
That's actually a fair idear...add rocks if need be to make the pack heavy. Then get out of the way at the bottom.

Hmmm.

Beats shakin' the rope to get the Pika Aardvark to release (crack the whip, baby).
saguaro sandy · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 140
Stephen Berwanger wrote: I'm not saying your stupid or that it is a stupid question. Most people are just tring to point out there is a certain progression in climbing knowledge. You cannot learn it ALL at once. You must build a base of saftey and understanding. My point was, as Kevin said, based on some of your past posts you SHOULD NOT even be thinking about or tring to learn about this EMERGENCY Technique. You should be much more focused on building that "base". As Kevin pointed out, there are many great organizations that can help build this knowledge.
it's "trying"
i like the alpine bag trick!
Bang Nhan · · Charlottesville, VA · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 35

Haha it's crazy that some old post can resurface after years

Chris Rice · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 55

Some things should be learned in person - pretty much anything where if you mess it up trying it from a picture, video, or written description then you might die should probably fall into that category.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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