Where to live in the Northeast

Depending on your grades they are plenty of pure cracks...

Try Grandmas Challenge = awesome

Lake George, NY area... Nuff said. Less than 90 min to anything and everything... And there's tons of climbing etc down that way... :)

^^^tru dat. Lake George area has its own unique micro-climate, it's usually drier and sunnier than the rest of the ADKs...

Hi Wade,

I'd steer you away from the gunks a little bit in favor of the 'dacks to the north. Reason being, as great as the gunks are, they are often a little crowded, cost money to enter and although the climbing is great, it isn't so traditional (overhangs and horizontal jugs vs. the vertical cracks and face climbs of the 'dacks). My suggestion would be dead center between the two in Saratoga springs. A bit high for cost of living, but a lot of fun. Kind of on the hip side, but mature. This would afford you easy enough access to the gunks in the cold months of climbing and close proximity to all the climbing in Lake George area as well as Vermont and the 'dacks. Even after-work destinations.

In short i don't think you'd want to settle so close to the gunks, limiting you to just that as a climbing destination. When the weather affords it and the bugs aren't so bad, the 'dacks win. The gunks are my "if-the-dacks-are-closed" crag.

For a bit more of an idea, i have yet to get to vermont to climb because the 'dacks are keeping me so busy. There's a lot there. One word of advice; find a local and befriend him. I've observed new comers to the 'dacks having a little trouble, getting frustrated and having a bad taste in their mouth simply because they chose the wrong crag for the day. Listen to the locals, we won't steer you wrong.

Hope that helps. Please let us know what area you choose and follow it up on some first impressions. We'd like to know what some new comers think.

-Mark

Mark Trotta wrote:When the weather affords it and the bugs aren't so bad, the 'dacks win. The gunks are my "if-the-dacks-are-closed" crag.

Ditto

New Paltz:

Pros: awesome for everyone not just the smelly hippies. There are plenty of young people to meet and there is also enough solitude to keep you happy. Food is pretty good and has the right attitude of people for the Tri-state area.

Cons: NYC traffic heads this way, NY Tax, NY Laws

Albany:

Pros: Daks, Gunks, Etc.

Cons: I almost moved here and while there is nightlife for the 20 year old people the city is sorta beat (but getting better). The demographic is more like Denver than Boulder. If moving to that area check Saratoga Springs. NY Tax, NY Laws

Portsmouth NH:

Pros: Live Free or Die....Ocean, No Income Tax. close to climbing, snow, etc. as well as airport

Cons: Property tax is high, drive is further than some to climbing.

CT:

Pros: close to airports and some climbing

Cons:Tax, Traffic. Look elsewhere in my opinion

North Western NJ:

Pros: relatively cheap rent, high tax, close to Airports, close to the Gunks and other climbing areas, Downhill Mountain Biking, Hiking, Etc.

Cons: NJ loves to tell you what to do and Tax you.

Rhode Island,

Pros: Bouldering, Beach, Airport.

Cons: Traffic, A bit of a drive to other climbing.

Southern VT:

Pros:close to the Daks, Gunks, NH, Etc. I don't know much about rent but my friends love it there and think it is a good halfway point for the outdoor life.

Cons: Don't know to much on the bad side.

Good luck on the Ice Coast wherever you decide.

PosiDave wrote:Southern VT: ... Cons: Don't know to much on the bad side.

Cow tipping, hippies with guns, losing track of which people are your parents and which are your cousins [ALSO SEE: CATSKILLS].

Mark Trotta wrote:When the weather affords it and the bugs aren't so bad, the 'dacks win.

So for 10 days a year, the Adirondacks win. :-)

The region is popular for vacation homes, since 3 or 4 of those nice days occur in the same month (September). The rest are scattered around the calendar.

I know, you think I'm kidding.

Gunkiemike wrote: So for 10 days a year, the Adirondacks win. :-) The region is popular for vacation homes, since 3 or 4 of those nice days occur in the same month (September). The rest are scattered around the calendar. I know, you think I'm kidding.

Trippy dude... I climb at poko like 3x's a week all summer(even with the closures there's still a few hundred open routes), then on the weekends we usually go to Keene Valley or somewhere different. All within an hour. There's probably 1000 routes and 40 climbing spots in Keene Valley? I've never been to a crag that a little Deet doesn't keep the bugs off. And I can't remember the last time I paid $20 to go to a crag either. Not to mention I've never had a ranger looking up my ass when I'm climbing up here. As well, probably 90% of the time I won't see a single person all day, which means I don't have to hear about people (pockin') their (cah's), and gweedos laughing about the guys they jumped at the (bah) last night. ;)

Yeah, the ADK's weather is notoriously bad but it's more reputation than reality. If you're only limited to weekends it stings a little more, especially if weather events just happen to land on the weekends as a matter of odds rather than consistency. Earlier this year I hardly got out anywhere, weather was conspiring to keep me off rock. Now it's been a solid 1-2 months of almost perfect weekends.

Kevin Heckeler wrote:Yeah, the ADK's weather is notoriously bad but it's more reputation than reality.

Agreed. Besides, a little bad weather can make you stronger.

Kids? My small town in SW-VT has amazing public schools, ice climbing, resort and bc skiing, trail running, uninspiring rock climbing, great biking, 80 minutes from Albany airport. If schools are an issue, it's a top option.

Other great options are, as mentioned; New Paltz, Great Barrington, Saratoga/Glens Falls (burgeoning sport climbing mecca).

Has no one mentioned Northampton? It's a pretty nice vibe in western Mass. It's a good mix of nature and small city, it's not so hick as some other rural areas. I think Massachusetts is a pretty forward-thinking, intelligent place to be. The people tend to be educated, aware, and on top of things. Of course this is more the case as you get closer to Boston, but western Mass is a nice mix offering you funkiness without being over-the-top weird.

Now for the climbing. Got gneiss? There's great climbing in western Mass, and it positions you perfectly for day/weekend trips to NH, Dacks, and of course the Gunks.

Just saying there are great towns adjacent to New Paltz as well. Gardiner and Rosendale are where the serious climbers/professionals who don't want the college culture breathing down their necks live. I lived in New Paltz for 5 months and enjoyed all three towns. Gardiner is cheaper than New Paltz with all the perks.

Agreed on Northampton. That town has more culture than the entire southern half of Vermont.

get up an over the gunks ridge and its a whole different place. ice and skiing in the catskills .rock at he gunks and adks for those long weekends in the woods 2 airports with in an hours drive I have been calling this place home even well before I moved to the area.

I would say if your ok with an hour to two hour drive for awesome climbing you should be living on the coast. Portsmouth NH is a rad little coastal town, 1hr30 min to Rumney, 2hrs to Conway area, 4hrs to acadia and dacks. 30 minutes to good bouldering at P-way if thats your thing. Plus when black fly and mossi season is in full swing you can always take up surfing. Once you move to the coast though be prepared never to leave!
2 cents........