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> Moosedog Tower
Direct South Face
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.7 from 183 votes
Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Jim Barker, John Mokri, Bob Dominick & Norm Saude, January 1969, FFA: Chris Gonzalez, May 1975 |
Page Views: | 13,004 total · 49/month |
Shared By: | Adam Stackhouse on Jun 28, 2002 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Golden Eagle Closures
Details
NOTICE OF PUBLIC CLOSURE:
CLIMBING ROUTES SLATANIC, RATTLESNAKE BUTTRESS, MARGARET THATCHER SPIRE, STEPPING STONES, BULKHEAD, DUNCE CAP, AND COMMISSIONER'S BUTTRESS ARE CLOSED DUE TO NESTING GOLDEN EAGLES
Dates of Closure: February 8th to June 15th, 2022
CLIMBING ROUTES SLATANIC, RATTLESNAKE BUTTRESS, MARGARET THATCHER SPIRE, STEPPING STONES, BULKHEAD, DUNCE CAP, AND COMMISSIONER'S BUTTRESS ARE CLOSED DUE TO NESTING GOLDEN EAGLES
Dates of Closure: February 8th to June 15th, 2022
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This route starts out of the boulders at the base of the south face, in a prominent left-facing dihedral with an obvious roof capping it. Can't miss it.
Pitch 1: Climb the dihedral to the roof crack, set some gear and pull the crux move (burly 5.9) up and over the right corner of the roof. Easy climbing up the seriously featured face above to a bolt. Belay.
Pitch 2: Climb out of the alcove above the belay, taking the very obvious left-leaning crack (5.7). After angling up and left, the crack goes vertical. Continue up and over into a notch below the upper part of the tower. Belay (#2, #3 Camalots good here).
Pitch 3: A short face section (5.6) leads up and left to gain the bottom of an easy crack leading to the summit ridge. Once on the ridge, run the rope via the easiest route across to the anchor bolts at the back of Moosedog.
Single line rap off the back of the tower from bolts.
Pitch 1: Climb the dihedral to the roof crack, set some gear and pull the crux move (burly 5.9) up and over the right corner of the roof. Easy climbing up the seriously featured face above to a bolt. Belay.
Pitch 2: Climb out of the alcove above the belay, taking the very obvious left-leaning crack (5.7). After angling up and left, the crack goes vertical. Continue up and over into a notch below the upper part of the tower. Belay (#2, #3 Camalots good here).
Pitch 3: A short face section (5.6) leads up and left to gain the bottom of an easy crack leading to the summit ridge. Once on the ridge, run the rope via the easiest route across to the anchor bolts at the back of Moosedog.
Single line rap off the back of the tower from bolts.
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