Best Alpine Climb in U.S.?

My trip I was planning to Peru for this spring has been canceled for reasons beyond my control. I'm pretty bummed out and looking for an alternative trip state side. I'm aware of all the great mountains here such as Hood, Rainer, Shasta, RMNP but I have no experience with any of them. I'm looking for opinions on where to go for a somewhat technical Alpine Climb in the states. I'm just not that sold on any of the above mountains mentioned. Where would you go if you had any place to climb in US for a week?

Liberty Ridge in the winter would be solid.

North Cascades, Washington if lower 48.

Alaska if anywhere in the entire U.S.A.!

How serious do you want? The cascades have a lot to give. Liberty ridge is nice. But tame compared to many things. If you want a challenge how about Lincoln peak (my personal nemesis) or the north face of Johannesberg, nooksack tower or index middle or north. Great technical climbs that will get u ready for the Andies or Alaska right here in the states

Jeez, I second all of that. If you're venturing a teeny, weeny bit outside of the lower 48 though, try the Coast Range (BC).

The Evo or Full Palisade are up there. I'll personally vouch for the awesomeness of the EVO. Go get the second winter ascents.

Yes, there is this little place they call "Canada"

Yeah, actually I wonder how "Alpine" Liberty Ridge really is in winter? You aren't going to get any mix except ice and snow.

I'd think for "Best Alpine Climb" you'd pretty much want to hit all the skills... I agree that the North Cascades is probably the best option here.

I'd think one of the most balanced alpine climbs in WA might be the Fisher Chimneys on Mt. Shuksan in fall. You hike in, you do some scrambling and some roped climbing, you get to do some alpine ice pitches, you do some glacier travel and since it's fall you can choose any sort of route up the pyramid to get to the summit.

I'd just think that you'd want to have varied terrain for it to even be considered in the Best Alpine Climb in the US.

To the OP question, yes.... if you had a week (and I mean a full week on the ground and suck in the weekends ~10 days)... to get the most bang for your buck I'd go to the North Cascades. Do a bunch of routes up there, lots of technical climbing, beautiful views, sometimes unstable weather, excellent trip and memorable.

JCM wrote:Yes, there is this little place they call "Canada"

I am going to go with the Cascades - and say the Price glacier on Shuksan - probably one of my favorite climbs.

Looking into Northern Cascades, thanks for the info. Love this site!

The Stuart Range near Leavenworth, WA has some good spring couloir routes and a little better weather than most of the North Cascades. Triple Couloirs up Dragontail or Ice Cliff Glacier on Stuart will demand a range of skills. NE Face of Johannesberg and Nooksack Tower look like fantastic climbs, but personally I'll be waiting until late June or July for those routes. They'd be pretty intense with spring snow and ice. Lincoln Peak is rarely in good condition so I wouldn't pin your hopes on that one.

If you end up coming to Washington and need a partner hit me up!

Also, Ptarmigan Ridge on Rainier is a more technical alternative to Liberty Ridge...

If I finalize a plan to go out there ill contact you. Trying to find time in the schedule and it's tough!

Granite peak and gannett peak look like great adventures to me, some day I'll get to find out first hand.