Best Easy Sport Crags in Central Az

Hey Guys,

I just moved to the Phoenix area and am trying to take my wife climbing somewhere, and seeing as how we always have more fun on routes she can lead (aka 5.4 - 5.8) I was wondering what your favorite easy sport area's where with in an hour or so.

Thanks,

Russ

the ponds/atlantis, also the mcdowells gardeners wall

It is about a 2.5 hr drive from Phoenix but Jacks Canyon is going to give you the best selection for moderate sport climbing as well as a great selection of harder routes.

The Promised Land offers a bunch of moderate sport and trad climbing on fun rock that gets better as the temps cool.

Toast with Butter wrote:the ponds/atlantis, also the mcdowells gardeners wall

Although there are some fun moderate trad climbs at Gardeners and a few climbs with some bolts, I do not think there are any true sport climbs in the McDowells or Pinnacle Peak. I would agree with Atlantis and, although further away, Jacks Canyon. Iso also has a number of fun, moderate sport climbs, although I would not refer to it as a "sport crag."

Welcome to Phoenix!

Look into the Queen Creek areas. The Pond, Upper Devils and Atlantis are close. Jacks Canyon and Mt. Lemmon are a little further, but well worth the drive. Mt. Lemmon has so much to offer year round from top to bottom.

Sport climbing within an hour in the 5.4 to 5.8 range puts you right in Camelback. But that's more like sporty face than sport climbing.

Joe has it right, go to Queen Creek Canyon area. It has many moderate routes; almost all are sport. Try the Pancake House in Upper Devil's or the Mine area for routes in your wife's range.

Isolation has a couple of routes she could lead. I'd recommend Green Lantern, 5.8; done in one but possible as two pitches.

Mouse Wall at the Homestead has over 30 routes and most are 5.10 or less.

I second everyone saying Queen Creek Canyon! Good sport climbing up there for sure. My wife and I are at either the Mine or the Pond every week. The Pond has great climbing but a little bit of a climb to get to the routes while the Mines climbing is a little more ran out but almost no approach to the routes. You both are more than welcome to come with us anytime you wanna go up, just let me know!

Keep in mind that the parking lot at camelback is closed for construction so getting to the mountain will take some hiking from another area since most of the streets are no parking zones.

Getting to the west side of Camelback is a pain. You have to hike in from the east, over the summit. Makes for a "backcountry" climb. Forgot about that...