ACE anchor replacement: Chockstone Chimney
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The previous hardware was 3/8" x 3.5" carbon steel with Metolius fat hangers. Both were spinners. (I unfortunately botched much of the video by having it pointed too high. All you get is 30 seconds:) youtube.com/watch?v=WK98_oV… In addition, Matt replaced the anchors on Darkness 'til Dawn last Saturday: |
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your tha man! |
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Thanks Gregger and Matt! |
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Thanks guys! Any luck with removing those mammut ring bolts (besides using a dremmel)? |
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Monty wrote:Thanks guys! Any luck with removing those mammut ring bolts (besides using a dremmel)?Yes. You are left with a shallow 5/8" hole. The next bolt would need to be a glue-in and not a mechanical bolt. We still have some questions about whether our method pulverizes/weakens the rock at the lip. We are still refining the method before using it on a route. Here is the jig we tested successfully in February along with some early failed experiments in core drilling around stud bolts: youtube.com/watch?v=l6WQcGv… |
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Interesting video on the ring bolts. Luckily there's not too many of those around to worry about. Coming from a guy who has no experience with glue in's; In theory would the glue solve the issues of weakened rock (unless of course it was a large fracture internally). |
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Locker wrote:Where is it that you are doing that "Testing"? Public land?I was able to Greg and Matt access to the North Quarry on North Table to conduct these tests. |
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Monty wrote:...In theory would the glue solve the issues of weakened rock (unless of course it was a large fracture internally)...I have no experimental data to go on, but my guess would be 'no'. I suspect you could get a failure like the soft rock crushing situation on page 4: safeclimbing.org/education/… The hydraulic punch driver can press against the rock with several thousand pounds of force. The ring bolts are beefy enough to sometimes hold until the ring flattens and breaks - that's a scary huge load. The 3/8" studs have all slipped out or snapped off at much lower forces. |
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Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.