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Rappel glove on the cheap

Vaughn · · Colorado · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 55

If you cut the fingers off leather gloves you can expect the stitching to come undone. Also, if you want to maintain your crag cred, you can draw the Petzl logo on the cuff with a sharpie.

Nate Castner · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 45
Matt Pierce wrote: I'm getting really sick of reading through the forums and coming across your shit posts. Didn't they make RULE #1 for you?
I'm glad I'm not the only one...
Jesse Newton · · catskills · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 145

theyre $25 plus extra for cheap leather underglove, but double glove way to go.

PMI

Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974
Nate C wrote: I'm glad I'm not the only one...
Locker has contributed more to the forum than you and Matt put together.

This post alone

mountainproject.com/v/climb…

makes all his bad jokes tolerable.
highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35

I like to keep my hands clean. I don't actually believe any of the stats about a glove making you safer.

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

Locker.... look out, folks are ganging up on you.

And No they don't get IT at all.... this climbin stuff be dead serious, no Joking around - at all.....

True story: was at ECHO on a sunny day, girls in skimpy shirts/shortshorts etc... me shorts, sunscreen shades We are doing the 9s and 10s that are THE LEFT FLANK..... this dude shows up... dressed for winter.

Nice North Face Alpine Pants, long sleeve axteric pullover with windbraker.... Helmet with head lamp and a Go-Pro to boot.

And Gloves.... the Petzel ones, really nice soft ones....

I offer to let him run our draws and give him a belay cause he is alone.

So we get to talking while he is getting ready to climb and I ask him:

"You going to climb with the gloves on?????"

"YES" he said.... "Im starting to get into TRAD...."

pfwein Weinberg · · Boulder, CO · Joined May 2006 · Points: 71
nicelegs wrote:I like to keep my hands clean. I don't actually believe any of the stats about a glove making you safer.
I like to keep my hands clean too, but I also believe the "stats" (or at least anecdotal reports) about gloves making you safer.
Anyone who reads accident reports for years will see plenty of the "rope started slipping through belayer's hands (for whatever reason generally do to belayer mistake) and belayer drops climber" variety.
Seems pretty clear to me that gloves may help in that type of accident, although they're certainly not foolproof and whether they help depends on what's going on. Sort of like seat belts or helmets or other "second level" safety devices.

I haven't succeeded in convincing anyone to wear gloves for belaying/rappelling, but it doesn't hurt to keep trying.

For people who belay or rappel with gloves and feel that they need to hold on "harder" than they do with bare hands--what can you say, that is so contrary to my experience that I have to think one of us is doing something wrong. I'm not 100% who that person is, but I'd be willing to put big bucks on some sort of belaying or rappelling challenge, gloves versus no-gloves, to see who loses control first.
Eric G. · · Saratoga Springs, NY · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 70
Matt Pierce wrote: I'm getting really sick of reading through the forums and coming across your shit posts. Didn't they make RULE #1 for you?
And I am sick of you taking a selfie while sitting a couple feet above you anchor while you are connected to your anchor by dyneema.
Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,520

Make sure your rappel gloves have kevlar in them just in case this happens:

mountainproject.com/v/dont-…

Kidding! That wouldn't help at all.

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35

I guess I need to add a little disclaimer to my statement about not believing gloves do much in an emergency.

I have some chronic pain in the tendons of my palms. It's from a construction job where I hauled hard on thin steel cable for a few weeks at a time. Anyway, I haven't been able to make a full fist since. I try to use gloves to make up for some of the room in my palm. I rap super slow and will add prusicks to slow me down if on a single rope.

2 years ago though, there was no functional difference between gloves on or off. In fact, sometimes the gloves felt slicker.

Josh.H · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 5
Jesse Newton wrote:theyre $25 plus extra for cheap leather underglove, but double glove way to go. PMI
I had a pair of those for rigging but returned them to REI after a few uses. I wasn't a fan of the extra seam of leather flat over the base of the finger joints, it started to curl down so far that the backside of the leather flap would end up grabbing the rope.

I was much more happier with the Petzl gloves, however a fair bit more $.

Plenty of folks just take cheap pairs from harbor stores or wally world, put a hole in the wrist to clip them to a biner and you're good to go. They may not last as long, but isn't that the point? They're cheap. Find something you like the feel of, if you're curious of what the rope will feel like then bring a 2' section to the store.

nicelegs wrote:I guess I need to add a little disclaimer to my statement about not believing gloves do much in an emergency. I have some chronic pain in the tendons of my palms. It's from a construction job where I hauled hard on thin steel cable for a few weeks at a time. Anyway, I haven't been able to make a full fist since. I try to use gloves to make up for some of the room in my palm. I rap super slow and will add prusicks to slow me down if on a single rope. 2 years ago though, there was no functional difference between gloves on or off. In fact, sometimes the gloves felt slicker.
I have belayed both with gloves and without, I only have qualitative data, but I'll agree the gloves may 'feel' slicker, but I don't think they decrease the coefficient of friction...at least I haven't experienced a case where the gloves actually slipped, even with extra weight on a belay device.

If someone wanted to test this I would be more than interested in some concrete data.
highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35

I believe that rgold might have some data that supports the use of gloves in all belay situations. Especially multipitch where a fall factor above 1 is possible.

I don't know. The only factor 2 I've ever taken was on a 9.4 brand new (slick) Sterling Ion and my partner didn't have gloves. I was fine.

Pretty small data set admittedly.

highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35
Locker wrote:"The only factor 2 I've ever taken" And your intestines didn't shoot out of your ass? Hmmm... You sure you took a Factor 2 ?
I had clipped a piece of tat on the anchor, so technically it was something like a 1.9. It does make a huge difference though because I didn't directly crash the belayers waist and kidneys. I was 20' below him at the end. He told me the tat I clipped made a sound like it was trying.
iceman777 · · Colorado Springs · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 60

I've made 200' raps on 7.7 twins several times not to mention 100s of raps on singles with a tag line and never once felt the need for gloves while raping. Grabbing the belay device afterwards is another story.

That being said and after reading all the posts here is it just me or is it lack of experience on others part?

Question : what's wrong with adding another carabiner to your rap device?
If I want more friction? When I'm rapping on twins or some other skinny line that's what I use. No need for gloves at all . I've added up to 3 when rapping on a skinny 7.7 single and never felt I was out of control.

Anyway Locker your posts make my day, keep up the good work u are appreciated

Ray Pinpillage · · West Egg · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 180

Gloves will help your wife's hands from getting burned while the rope goes wizzing through her hand when you fall.

Ray Pinpillage · · West Egg · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 180
Jake Jones wrote: You should really reconsider, with all the STDs about and what not.
Raping is really in right now.
Ray Pinpillage · · West Egg · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 180
Jake Jones wrote: Yeah, it's seasonal. Wait until spring, then it'll be drunken consent again. I think I'm getting too old to keep up.
Surprise sex.
clay meier · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 350

I think locker is an ass but I think that about everyone on here.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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