Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,065 total · 15/month
Shared By: Darin Lang on Oct 12, 2001
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: 2024 Raptor Avoidance Areas! Limited Toilet Facilities! DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

From the parking lot, go across the drainage and then past the first trail (to Generic Crack). The next trail will take you up to the Chocolate Corner area. Hike past Chocolate Corner to a large inset chimney with two routes inside. This is the route on the right side of the chimney, ascending a slightly overhanging thin hands to finger crack in an acute dihedral/slot to a anchor composed of two drilled pins. About 70 feet.

Start up the seemingly frictionless thin-hands slot (with occasionally tolerable hand jams) to a pod, where you can place the #3 Camalot and milk a "rest". The 25 feet from the pod to the anchors is the crux, with acceptable and sometimes excellent fingerlocks. Hardmen and hardwomen will just jam straight up to the anchors, while the rest of us softies can use an inelegant combination of stemming and chimney technique to supplement the finger jams.Three stars anywhere else, but two stars at most for Indian Creek.

Protection Suggest change

3 #1 Camalots, 1 #3 Camalot, double Aliens from yellow to orange. Heck, you could might even be able to use some larger stoppers on this if you wanted to hang around and fiddle them in.

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