Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: Matt Cox, Spencer Lennard and Steve Emerson, 1973
Page Views: 66,765 total · 284/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Warning Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Climb the obvious right-slanting crack using jams and lieback moves until encountering a roof high on the route. A good rest is found here, so plug in some gear and pull the cruxy roof before topping out onto a nice ledge with anchors.

Rappel with ideally a 70m rope or downclimb easy slabs on the south face.

Location Suggest change

The far right side of the west face is the location of this classic right-slanting crack. It's also about 50 feet right from the base of Desert Song, which starts behind some yuccas.

Protection Suggest change

Gear to 3 inches, bolted rappel anchor.

There's a beer named after this route? Suggest change


Mountain Sun Pubs & Brewery - "Just like one of the best climbs at Joshua Tree, this IPA, chock full of UK Kent Golding hops, is not only beautiful to look at, but after quaffing a few pints, you’ll have that same satisfaction as if you were pulling that final crux move at the end of the climb. This beer is also dry hopped with whole flower, UK Kent Golding hops."

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