What did we call that again? Oh yeah, the Death Gully.

All Locations > Montana > Southwest Region > Paradise Valley > Cowen Massif > Montana Centennial Route (5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c)

What did we call that again? Oh yeah, the Death Gully.

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Cairn at the base of the Centennial Route on 8/16/19.

Pitch 8 of 9 slab traverse.

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Kurt Prond

Dec 1, 2013

“What did we call that again? Oh yeah, the Death Gully.”

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Photo Route Overlay (version 2).

This route is good

Photo Route Overlay (version 1).

Looking up finger crack on Pitch 9 of 10. Direct start is protectable 5.10 or do an airy unprotected 5.8 traverse into it.

Looking down at notch between Eenie and First Buttress. First rap station on slung horn on right side of photo.

Centennial Route

Approaching the base of the buttress. The splitter crack system is the Hooven-Leo variation about 100 feet to the left of the standard route. The standard route is just around the right toe of this buttress just out of view.

Pitch 7.

Starting down the east gully option. Less direct, but safe and pleasant. One easy rappel over a cliff just before the lake.

Looking down midway up Pitch 3 of Hooven-Leo variation.

Ellie Thompson coming across on the exposed hand traverse. Pitch 6 of 9.

Scramble left along this grassy ledge to get to the rap station above the notch.

The Centennial Route in 9 pitches using a 70m rope.

Bad belaying. Good picture taking.

top of the prow and top of pitch 7 of 9.

Crack just left of Prow on Pitch 7.

Halfway up the overhang Pitch. 3rd pitch on the description, We did it as the 2nd pitch

Climbing up high on the Centennial Route

Rap Station 1: 35m to an intermediate rappel or 60m to notch. Tie knots if you are rapping with a single 70!

Looking at the west gully option. There are lots of tracks going down this way, but according to various comments we had read on mountainproject, it sounds as if the gully steepens and the descent becomes a bit heinous towards the end.

Cruising the hand crack corner above the 5.10 finger crack pitch. We combined these together with minimal rope drag and belayed from the ledge seen here.

just below the crux.

Skirt left below rock walls until you come to the giant square-shaped slot (the "Garage Door"). Then cut right up the grassy/rocky slopes to the base of the route.

Cairn at the base of the Centennial Route on 8/16/19.

What did we call that again? Oh yeah, the Death Gully.

Pitch 8 of 9 slab traverse.

Death Gully descent

Ellie following the 2nd pitch.

View from campsite, the dihedral pitch and Prow are obvious.

Bouldery move on Pitch 10 of 10 (final pitch).

Roof on Pitch 2 of Hooven-Leo variation.

bottom of the crux pitch.

Turning the corner around the Prow.

Rap Station 2: 33m or so. With rope stretch, double 60s should get you down from Rap Station 1.

This is where we intersected the standard route after a rightward traverse along a large ledge at the top of Pitch 3 of Hooven-Leo variation. I think the dihedral on the right is the second half of Pitch 4 of the standard route.

bottom of the crux pitch. Fine stone...

Looking up Pitch 5.

Pitch 3, from here the route goes up and right through the weakness in the roof

Hand crack on Pitch 5.

This is the original topo drawn from the first ascent. Note that we used Friends instead of Camalots and 60m double ropes.

This one's for you Jeffrey. circa 2011.

Looking up from the bottom of the route (standard route). Disclaimer: We actually climbed the Hooven-Leo variation 100 feet left of this, so I am only guessing this is the start of the standard route based on the route description.

Pitch 1 of Hooven-Leo variation. To access the crack system, climb unprotectable terrain up the chimney on the left and make a committing step onto the face. From there, traverse easily to the crack system and start jamming!

The upper dihedral of pitch 4. I found the gear to be tricky and sparse up high. Brass offsets were useful.

This is Kyle Christenson approaching the base of the route

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