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Glide Path
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.5 from 13 votes
Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | FFA (with direct start): John Steiger, John Sherman, 1984 |
Page Views: | 2,785 total · 17/month |
Shared By: | John Steiger on Nov 23, 2010 |
Admins: | adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
This long crack line was originally climbed in 1969 by a young Dave Baker (the soon-to-be owner of the Summit Hut) and Kem Johnson (who moved to Australia years ago) using pins for aid. Neglected for years until 1980, it went free at 5.11b by Herb North and John Fowler, who added a bolt to face climb into the lower part of the crack from the opening moves of Chung King Corner and found a free escape from the original aid line near the top of the pitch. They named their version of the route Glide Path, which has since stuck. That same year, though, Phoenicians Jim Waugh, Brad Smith (before he moved to Tucson), and Jim Zahn climbed the North-Fowler start then freed the upper part, adding another 5.11 section. Four years later, the Verm and I managed to nab the entire crack free from its start, which added the free crux and creates an action-packed mixed bolt and gear climb that I've always thought comes close to Histoplasmosis in quality and difficulty.
If I recall, a number of the bolts were quarter-inchers, some that could be backed up with gear and consequently ignored and others that, well, you'd take a leap a faith when clipping. Not sure what's there now. Although the bad bolts may warrant only three stars for this line, if it were cleaned up I'm fairly sure it would be a Lemmon classic.
If I recall, a number of the bolts were quarter-inchers, some that could be backed up with gear and consequently ignored and others that, well, you'd take a leap a faith when clipping. Not sure what's there now. Although the bad bolts may warrant only three stars for this line, if it were cleaned up I'm fairly sure it would be a Lemmon classic.
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