All Locations > Washington > Central-W Casca… > Skykomish Valley > Index > Lookout Point Area > Lookout Point > (a) W Side > (G) Bowling-to-Cringe

Bowling to Biscuits

Name: Bowling to Biscuits
Rating: 2.4

5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British

Routes in (G) Bowling-to-Cringe

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bobcat Cringe T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Bowling to Biscuits T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Peanuts To Serve You T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Purple Kool-Aid T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Solitude T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
	This is Index Not L.A. T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	You Can Cool Jack Robinson T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b

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Type:	Trad, 130 ft (39 m), 2 pitches
FA:	Jon Nelson and Dave Toler (Dec 1980)
Page Views:	2,724 total · 18/month
Shared By:	Jon Nelson on Nov 20, 2011
Admins:	Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

P1: 5.10a. Climb a short crack on a pedestal, about 30' left of Peanuts. At the top of the pedestal, layback up and right to the face holds (takes a good wired stopper or brass nut: #5 BD nut is perfect). The face climbing (~5.8) has two bolts, and ends on a ledge below a hand-crack in a shallow corner. Climb the crack (~10a) and do a few traverse moves left to a two-bolt chained anchor below the roof.

Older guidebooks erroneously showed the flaring corner just below p2 as the first pitch. Now that corner is clean, so it makes an alternative first pitch (in summer and fall, anyway--it tends to stay wet in winter & spring). Some folks now start on it, then veer right about 20' up to join the standard p1 described above.

P2: 5.10d. Go over the roof on the right side, grabbing solid flakes and jamming (~10a). Enter the corner (see photo) and follow the corner to a ledge and 3-bolt belay. The crux is the pumpy jams soon after pulling the roof. The crack widens at the top. The top ledge is very comfortable.

Pitch 2 is the money pitch. Clean, slightly curvy, and colorful rock. Sustained corner jamming. It also tends to be drier than nearby routes, even in a light rain.

A double rope (150') reaches the ground. With a single rope, you can rap to the anchor at the top of the first pitch, but it may require a little swinging to be able to grab the chains. From this anchor, a single 60-m rope will reach the ground.

Location

In the Bobcat Cringe area. Starts about 30' left of Peanuts to Serve You.

Protection

Bring small nuts and cams to 4".

History

In 1980, Dave Toler and I went ground up. I led the first pitch, traversing over from Peanuts, then heading through some thick foliage that clogged the best jams, making it much more desperate than it is now. The second pitch was always perfectly clean, though originally there were some vine maples below the roof that I stood on. We called it Bowling for biscuits.

In 2012, Derek Pearson cleaned off the (much better) direct start, and then later he, Nicola Masciandaro, and I repeated the route. Now both pitches are very clean. The vine maples at the start of p2 left on their own (rotted and fallen out), and Nicola probably did the first non-tree-aided ascent of the pitch, giving the route it's present name.