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Silent Partner

Original Post
ZackBay · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 10

So I took the silent partner out to the rock wall at school to test it out before I tried to use it outside and I think I learned a lot during short time I was testing it. However a few questions came up that I want to run by you all. The first time I jumped off the wall I came to the determination that the device gives a very hard catch. I think this could potentially be hazardous when climbing on gear. Do you think that putting a Yates screamer above the anchor attached to the rope with two clove hitches leaving a loop of slack in the lead line would reduced the forces felt by the top piece of gear enough to be worth the time and effort of adding it to the system?

Meme Guy · · Land of Runout Slab · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 325
phil456 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 0

Hi
It is good that you are testing before you go outside, there is a huge amount to be aware of, you really need to have it all dialled in.
can not help with the screamer, but I have always found the 'catch' to be incredibly soft, the rope diameter and feel is critical, I use 9.8, a poster on this board tried 9.4 and found it not suitable, a thick rope will not feed well, maybe thats a cause of your hard catch.
cheers Phil

ZackBay · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 10

Thanks for the reply Phil, I didn't think to much about the rope when I originally wrote this thread. Looking back it was a pretty fuzzy 10.5 mm, so maybe that has a lot to do with it. Maybe I should redo the test with a newer 10.2 and see if that helps. That should help with the feed issues I ran into.

Febs · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 5
phil456 wrote:Hi It is good that you are testing before you go outside, there is a huge amount to be aware of, you really need to have it all dialled in. can not help with the screamer, but I have always found the 'catch' to be incredibly soft, the rope diameter and feel is critical, I use 9.8, a poster on this board tried 9.4 and found it not suitable, a thick rope will not feed well, maybe thats a cause of your hard catch. cheers Phil
Ouch, I have an old 10.8 mm rope, I guess I'll have to buy one more rope when my SP will be finally delivered to me.
This solo thing is starting to cost me more than renting an alpine guide for life.
JacksonLandFill Wood · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2013 · Points: 40

10.2 works fine. 9.4 works, just rapping with it is scary (my opinion) I highly reccomend working out your SYSTEM on the ground before even getting close a wall. The catch is hard but then again you're falling.

Your anchor is built off one piece? eeeesh.

ZackBay · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 10

@Febs I hear you man this solo game is starting to put a dent in the old pocket book.

@JacksonLandFill The anchor was 2 bolts linked with a sliding x with limiter knots. It was on a indoor wall so I felt they would be secure enough to hold a few jumps. A short ways up on the first bolt I had a prussic holding upward tension on the anchor in an attempt to limit shock loading the bolts.

JacksonLandFill Wood · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2013 · Points: 40

Concerning the original post: If the screamer extended that might potentially lead the the SP releasing thus having to accelerate a second time?

ZackBay · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2013 · Points: 10

Not sure what you mean by a top anchor, I build the anchor at the bottom of the wall and was climbing above it. I believe I have a functional system but will continue to research and improve it. I thought by using a screamer inline with the lead line would reduce the force on the top piece and myself. I was hoping to get out this week and test it but a storm has me stuck inside. So thanks for the tips and pointers everyone.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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