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Carboman
5.10c/d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British PG13
Avg: 3.3 from 11
votes
Routes in Hidden Wall
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Anne Marie T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Carboman T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Hard Tellin' Not Knowing T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13 |
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Hidden Agenda T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Liquid Anal Crowbar T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Mad Hatter, The T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mayfly T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Nuclear Free Zone T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Punji Stick T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Un-named T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Unnamed variation T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Jeep Gaskin, Joe Coates (1978) |
| Page Views: | 2,756 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | themostdirect on Sep 8, 2009 |
| Admins: | Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Description
Pitch 1: (5.10a) Start just right of the large offwidth corner, following a nice hand crack until you can step left into the steep weakness. Step up through fun pinches and flares and past an ancient bong to the beefy bolted ring anchors. (80')
Pitch 2: (5.10d) Here is the fun stuff. Leaving the belay, move up and right, passing under steep lichen covered flakes. Wander up the right side of these blocks and then back towards a clean face on left. Making some heady friction moves above your gear, get to a stance and clip the ancient rusty SMC bolt. Make another fun move and then run it out to the anchor bolts way up and right.
(Special note: "Selected Climbs of NC" calls this second pitch 90' which is WAY SHORT. The second pitch is actually more like 130 feet, which won't put you back to any anchor with one rope...)
It is possible to continue up for two more pitches of dirty eyebrow climbing at 5.9 and 5.7 and then walk off in the gully between the North Side and Hidden Wall.
Pitch 2: (5.10d) Here is the fun stuff. Leaving the belay, move up and right, passing under steep lichen covered flakes. Wander up the right side of these blocks and then back towards a clean face on left. Making some heady friction moves above your gear, get to a stance and clip the ancient rusty SMC bolt. Make another fun move and then run it out to the anchor bolts way up and right.
(Special note: "Selected Climbs of NC" calls this second pitch 90' which is WAY SHORT. The second pitch is actually more like 130 feet, which won't put you back to any anchor with one rope...)
It is possible to continue up for two more pitches of dirty eyebrow climbing at 5.9 and 5.7 and then walk off in the gully between the North Side and Hidden Wall.
Location
From where the trail exits the woods, look up and right for an off-width corner, Carboman's first pitch crack lies directly to the right. You can see the anchors up and left above the large corner.
Protection
Standard single trad rack up to a BD #3, with nuts and a few tri-cams.
The bolt on the second pitch needs replaced.
Anchors have already been replaced on pitch two and are set for rappel but one rope won't get it done.... we had to lower off a single shiny new bolt in the middle of the blank face directly below.
The bolt on the second pitch needs replaced.
Anchors have already been replaced on pitch two and are set for rappel but one rope won't get it done.... we had to lower off a single shiny new bolt in the middle of the blank face directly below.
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