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Block Periodization, Linear Periodization & Non-Linear Periodization

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Cactus Moonshine · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 5

Block periodization versus linear periodization versus non-linear periodization.

Curious to hear the thoughts of those with periodization experience on different programs.
A search of the forum didn't bring up any information or prior threads on block periodization.

I'm looking for some perspective on the best way to adopt a training program that sets one up for long-term improvement, while still allowing for performance climbing on a regular basis. Can one have their cake and eat it too?

My basic understanding of these programs is below. I'm new to all of this, so please correct me/add/etc.

A linear plan is that it trains different phases (arc, hyp, max r, pe) independently over a period of time and culminates in a peak performance window. During the linear plan you are not climbing to preform until the window. As judging by folks testifying for the Rock Prodigy (linear) plan, it looks like long-term improvement is possible through this plan.

A non-linear plan focuses on different phases (arc, hyp, max r, pe) throughout the week with the goal of maintaining multiple 'strengths'. This plan does not produce a period of peak performance, but allows for performance-based climbing on a regular basis. Can long-term improvement, along the same lines as linear periodization, be obtained with a non-linear plan?

A block plan seems to blend the two above programs; setting a main focus for each phase, but adding elements of other phases to maintain those 'strengths' and provide some variety. What are the weaknesses of a block program versus a linear approach? The appeal of this program is that you could train, while still climbing to perform on a regular basis.

Thanks for any information, opinions, etc.

A lot of this came from reading the old Rock Prodigy post on RC and from this video:

vimeo.com/67435188

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

this is a very interesting question, and i am curious to see what folks think. this last year i followed what i called a hybrid-periodized plan (albeit a bit loosely, due to a bunch of things). i think this is probably similar to the block periodizing plan. basically, my workouts were set up on a weekly basis like this:

M - work late, rest, re-organize equipment from previous weekend.
T - high volume "focus" workout - either hangboard for full HYP cycle, or boulder/campus/system board for power cycle
W - usually work really late, hopefully light cardio, shoulder stuff, a little core, general body maintenance
Th - secondary workout, not too much volume - CIR or medium bouldering at gym, work on technique sort of stuff
F - rest, pack stuff for the weekend.
Sa - climb hard (if weather sucks, do a focus workout)
Su - climb fairly hard (if weather sucks for 2nd day, do secondary workout)

my reasoning for using this configuration basically revolves around the length of the work week. i used to be able to do 2 high volume workouts (tues and thurs) and still recover in time to climb on the weekend. i am just not able to do that any more - if i have a high volume workout on thursday, i am not able to fully recover in time for the weekend.

i would love to do more of a rigorous periodized plan, but it is pretty hard for me to get weekdays off. also, i have limited free time and i want to climb as much as possible, which means making climbing a priority over training on the weekends.

my plan worked pretty well this year. i set what i thought would be a difficult goal, but i was able to crush my goal by the beginning of october. i will probably stick with this program through the start of next year, maybe with some minor tweaks.

Highlander · · Ouray, CO · Joined Apr 2008 · Points: 256

I learned long ago coaching endurance athletes and track and field athletes that the old model of periodization is not the most effective way to train. I started implementing training planned very similar to the above video and my athletes would perform better at the end of the season versus trying to have that "ultimate peak" which is a myth.
It's better to train all energy system year round, the only changes are the amount or percent or emphasis of work done in each energy system over the course of the year.

SteveBechtel · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2008 · Points: 0

I remember when I first read about periodization. It was revelatory in an almost religious sense. Finally there was a clear explanation of why I wasn’t getting any better. I read a book about it. Then I read another one, and another. Then I tried it and my muscles were sore and so I wrote an article about it for Climbing Magazine. I’d like to take a moment to formally apologize for that.

The idea of periodization in most minds is the “classic model” which is an amalgamation of several coaches’ plans designed for Eastern-Bloc athletes in the Soviet era. The stated goals of such a program, general physical improvements and specific improvements in a given sport are exactly what all of us are looking for. The problem, and it’s a big one, is it doesn’t really work.

If you’re not familiar with the classic model, I’ll line it out for you in general terms. Over the course of several months (referred to as mesocycles) we transition from general physical fitness and volume building to super high intensity and low volume work within our respective sports. This includes going from low-intensity, low-resistance easy training to more complex, intense training. The idea behind the reduced volume as work intensifies is to alleviate central nervous system fatigue and increase recovery during the later stages of training.

While this model of periodization might have worked for competitive weightlifters that had a clear competition period during parts of the year, and who were taking “supplements” to aid in their training, it very clearly doesn’t work for the majority of rock climbers who: 1) don’t take steroids and 2) want to perform well for extended periods of time. Our experience is that massive CNS fatigue doesn’t really occur with a well-planned late cycle in climbing (even hard bouldering isn’t powerful compared to Olympic lifing), so volume can be kept relatively high.

In the classical model, one trains almost exclusively for, say, power during a multi-week cycle, then switches to endurance, then strength, or whatever. And I mean whatever - people rearrange the qualities all the time in training programs. The idea is that while focusing on power, strength somehow magically stays with us, as does endurance. On paper, this might work, but with the climbers we’ve seen on the endurance - recruitment - hypertrophy - power endurance cycle, it doesn’t work in the real world.

We see endurance and recovery tank in the latter phases of the plan. We see finger strength wane. We see a short window of performance, and we never see anything close to hypertrophy.
If you were to build power for 4 weeks and then back off completely, the longest you could conceivably maintain that power would be another 4 weeks. Endurance components are even less persistent.

The massive decrease in volume is a big problem. Do you really want to climb less as your season progresses? In fact, with most plans, the reduction in workload is so severe (because of the concurrent huge increase in intensity) that overall fitness suffers and the peak performance phase can only be sustained for a couple of weeks.

Climbing is a technique sport. Technique is best learned either at very low intensity, where fatigue doesn’t play a role, or at very high intensity, where perfection of technique is critical for the execution of tasks.

At the top end of technical improvement - actually climbing a harder route or problem than you did before - you’re going to need more than one month per training season working at top levels. I argue that you need to work on it almost all year long. Classical periodization just doesn’t allow for this.

Intensification is the second big problem with the classical model. When you only have 4 weeks to build power, how much can you build? I don’t know about you, but at my age it seems like it takes about that long just to get warmed up. By trying to intensify too rapidly, we risk two big problems, increased risk of injury, and lack of sustainable fitness. The longer you take to coax the “persistent” factors such as power and strength, the longer they will stick with you.

The final big problem we see with the classic model is the season-to-season gain and loss of strength. By developing maximum strength for just, say, 2-3 months a year, we will see no long-term improvement in the athlete - only “getting back in shape.” What we want is a climber that’s always got a strong base of fitness. Enter “block-stlye programs...

Several years ago, I read all the books by Kraemer, Matveyev, and by a bunch of endurance coaches, but the one that really sold me was “Periodization” by Tudor Bompa.

I did the same thing every other climber who has read Bompa’s book did...I “converted” the model to rock climbing. As I said, it didn’t work. I figured out, over the course of several valuable years, why this didn’t work. Climbing isn’t seasonal. It’s a skill-heavy sport. Climbing required heavy use of all three energy systems. I’m not on steroids. Etcetera.

Eventually, I started to explore planning models for sports that were similar to rock climbing, and came up with a periodization strategy known as Block Periodization that eliminates some of the problems with the classical model. This model features training cycles of a highly concentrated, specialized workload while maintaining the qualities developed during other periods of the year.

Blocks can be arranged to allow for multiple high-performance periods throughout the year, and by maintaining strength throughout all of the blocks, we can have longer periods of high-performance.

For more advanced athletes, the training loads of specific qualities have to be extremely high in order to provide sufficient training stimuli. Although classical periodization provides this to some degree, the focus of the individual mesocycles is frequently not sufficient.

In the first 4-5 week period within a given block, we work on general motor and technical abilities addressing the focus of that block. For example, the first part of a strength block might feature heavy resistance training, which is very general in motor pattern, but is specific to gaining strength. The following half of the block is dedicated to addressing specific motor and technical abilities. This would include more special strength exercises and time applying strength to climbing.

The blocks for endurance, strength, and power all follow this 7-10 week model. Because of the intense and damaging nature of a power-endurance block, we would limit it to just 2-3 weeks (Anaerobic endurance is a “transient” training quality and is built and lost very quickly). The performance block is also limited to the 4-5 week time frame due to the detraining that occurs.

Within any block, more than 75% of training time will be aimed at the motor patterns and metabolic demands of that block. The other 25% of your training time will be spent maintaining the qualities developed in previous blocks. In classical periodization, an athlete can go up to 20 weeks between strength cycles; this is enough time for real decreases to occur.

Block Periodization makes optimum use of what’s called the Residual Training Effect. The definition goes like this: “the retention of changes in the body state and motor abilities after the cessation of training beyond certain time period.” What this means is that even after cessation of a strength cycle, we can maintain a certain level of strength for a short time with no strength training. Adding even one day a week of training strength after a full strength cycle can allow an athlete to maintain full strength for 8 or more weeks. A similar pattern emerges in endurance training. Several studies (as well as your own experience) show that you can hold onto endurance for a few weeks without training it. After 8-10 weeks, however, this quality declines, as well.

According to author Vladimir Issurin, the residual training effect of different qualities is as follows:
Aerobic Endurance: 30 days
Maximum Strength: 30 days
Anaerobic Endurance: 15 days
Power Endurance: 12 days
Maximum Power or Speed: 5 days

With these numbers in mind, You can see how detraining takes place...but you also probably know it from your own experience. That's why we built our block template. I think it’s the most comprehensive and effective training template we’ve ever developed, and we get good results with it.

A quick note on the Anderson plan - their program doesn't follow a strict linear model, either. Although the details of the plans might differ a bit, what you'll see in Mike and Mark's upcoming book leans more toward block-style programming than away from it.

All that being said, I think climbers need to think a good long time before committing to a super-restricted and structured plan. The only time to complicate your training is when absolutely everything simpler has failed to produce results. Hope this helps,

SB

Ben Circello · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 95

"I remember when I first read about periodization.
-Snip- SB "

It's posts like these that make me wish MP had a rating system. Great information, clearly written - many thanks for time spent writing this and your perpsective Steve.

Cheers!

Emil Briggs · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 125

Some good discussion here. One thing I would add though is the role that bodyweight and nutrition play. For people who are not beginners building power in the long term requires muscle hypertrophy. And that is difficult to do unless you're running a calorie surplus. If you do you can gain muscle but unless you're using drugs you'll also gain some fat. That presents a challenge for climbers who tend to be super focused on staying lean all the time. Weightlifters typically let themselves gain some weight (and muscle) during part of the training cycle and then try to lose the fat while retaining most of the muscle during another part of the cycle.

Monomaniac · · Morrison, CO · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 17,295

Great post Steve!

When I read this yesterday it made me cringe:

Cactus Moonshine wrote:the Rock Prodigy (linear) plan
I almost chimed in but I was having a busy day. I agree completely with Steve's assessment of our training approach. I think part of the problem is that our program has evolved A LOT since the RC.com article was written, and to give credit where its due, Steve had plenty to do with that.

In the book we describe our plan as a hybrid between linear and non-linear periodization, but I think Steve's description of "Block Peridozation" is accurate. We emphasize phases of training throughout the Macrocycle, but we are generally recommending training multiple aspects of performance concurrently. For example, while I emphasize power during a 3-4 week period, once this phase ends, I continue to train power every (training/climbing) day until the end of my season, and every single climbing/training day in my season includes time dedicated to low-intensity climbing that is used to re-enforce skill acquisition/development and stress-proofing.
Keith Beckley · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 100

Great and informative discussion. I recently completed a 12 week Linear cycle and was absolutely exhausted near the end of the PE phase. I over did it i feel. I was failing on routes outside on the weekend because i just didnt feel recovered. I didnt feel as though i peaked. Im anxious to try these block periodiztion principles. Plus it allows for more fun along the way.

Im curious as to what Steve constitues as an emphasis on strength. Like gerneral fitness? Core, Pullups, lock offs ? What type of activities would comprise 75 % of one s time during the initial strentgh phase? The power and PE phases are easier for me to understand. Thanks for any addtional info.

Monomaniac · · Morrison, CO · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 17,295
JLP wrote:I'm thinking this routine would hospitalize the noisiest of Rock Prodigy followers/posters here.
Myself included! FWIW, I've NEVER trained according to that schedule. Mike has (and good for him). I could not handle that much volume and still hope to achieve my goals, which have generally been more power-oriented than Mike's. Piling on more and more training is fine, but to do so you absolutely must reduce the intensity (or end up injured). I lean more towards high-intensity, low duration training, but that its how the routes around here are built. In other parts of the world you might be better off going the other way.
Cactus Moonshine · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 5

Steve.

Thanks for your response. It's excellent to get direct feedback from you and Mono. Your response definitely helped clarify the differences in periodization programs. It sounds like research and experimentation has lead to the block approach as being the most effective plan.

Question about your statement regarding the decision to begin a training program. In the last paragraph, you mentioned:

SteveBechtel wrote:The only time to complicate your training is when absolutely everything simpler has failed to produce results.


Are there simpler training programs that you would recommend?

As you stated in your video, using the Milo analogy, continuous overloading is not effective without risking negative repercussions. If one gets to a point where they are randomly adding volume and intensity (continuous overloading) to improve, should they not adopt a more structured approach (block) to prevent injury and set a more clear path for improvement?

Mono.

Monomaniac wrote:When I read this yesterday it made me cringe:
Apologies. You and Steve clarified that Rock Prodigy has developed into a hybrid/block program. My statement equating Rock Prodigy to a strictly linear plan shows my rudimentary grasp of periodization programs. I've been reading a lot of the information that you and Mike have posted on MP. Thank you for taking the time to share your experiences and research.

I'm looking forward to pre-ordering a copy of the book.

Will the book offer information on different approaches for different goals? For example, regimens for high-intensity/low-duration training to reach power-oriented objectives versus lower-intensity/high volume training for endurance/power-endurance (?) goals?

Thanks again.
Monomaniac · · Morrison, CO · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 17,295
Cactus Moonshine wrote:Will the book offer information on different approaches for different goals? For example, regimens for high-intensity/low-duration training to reach power-oriented objectives versus lower-intensity/high volume training for endurance/power-endurance (?) goals? Thanks again.
Yes! And it will teach you how to tailor the various plans on your own.
slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103
JLP wrote:The biggest problem I see with the Rock Prodigy plan is the misinterpretation. I'm going to hangboard or campus for 2-3 hours total per week for a couple months, do nothing but rest the remainder, follow it up with some 4x4's and go crush. GFL with that. The various disciples and wannabes posting to no end here about their hangboard regimens might note the following eye chart, barely visible on the Rock Prodigy page, that shows Mike training up to 6 days per week on sport specific climbing exercises, even while hangboarding. Check out the Zion guide for what some of his wknds were like. I'm thinking this routine would hospitalize the noisiest of Rock Prodigy followers/posters here. It also, actually, really looks a lot like what Steve is talking about, to me. Can't wait for the book. Agree with Steve and Highlander's posts 100%.
i don't really recall seeing that much of this. maybe the occasional person who is brand new to HB training going overboard, or the occasional person who lives in kansas and is kind of screwed. most of the folks who have a fair amount of HB experience are quick to chime in, usually recommending to not over-do it.

a couple things that i think are easily forgotten in the schedule that you show;
1) mike was a lot younger when he wrote that, and it is a lot easier to recover when you are younger.
2) much of his workout schedule has a strong aerobic/endurance component to it, which is also easier to recover from
3) perhaps the routes he was most interested in at that time had a very significant amount of endurance and/or stamina factors to them. i remember him refering to his brother as 'the power junky' or something like that.

there is no way in hell i could keep that schedule. i almost feel tired just looking at it :) it definitely worked for him though - he climbed some serious shit on that program.
Bapgar 1 · · Out of the Loop · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 90
SteveBechtel wrote:All that being said, I think climbers need to think a good long time before committing to a super-restricted and structured plan. The only time to complicate your training is when absolutely everything simpler has failed to produce results. Hope this helps, SB
Steve, thanks for posting up. I also find your parting wisdom the most interesting.
The less focused style of periodization definitely makes more sense for all of us recreational climbers.

To the OP, the main component for long term improvement is overall consistency in training. But if you can stay psyched and avoid injuries this usually takes care of itself.
Rajiv Ayyangar · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 220
Brent Apgar wrote: To the OP, the main component for long term improvement is overall consistency in training. But if you can stay psyched and avoid injuries this usually takes care of itself.
Steve - Thanks for the awesome post - it clarified and added to the things you covered in the video.

Brent - Instead of "consistency" I'd use "measurability" - it's important to conserve workout structures to measure improvement. The best example of this is fingerboarding. By doing a simple workout you can track progress, recognize plateaus, and make consistent gains (and prevent injury).

At the same time there's a necessary dynamic nature to the macrostructure of training. Progression in rock climbing is (for most people) a series of plateaus. The question: "What is my biggest opportunity to see progression right now?" has an answer that changes throughout your climbing career.
Kerwin Loukusa · · PNW · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 135

Good discussion.

Does it make more sense to think about the idea of training in a serial or parallel fashion? When training in parallel multiple motor abilities are trained at the same time (probably only effective for those who are untrained). When training in serial fashion, the different motor abilities are trained in a sequential fashion.

Additionally it may make more sense for the terms linear, non-linear, and conjugate refer more to the manipulation of training load/volume/intensity applied to a specific motor ability (hyp, power, ARC). The manipulation of these variables throughout the total training cycle can not be understated, given the residual training effect that Steve mentioned above.

Block training as described by Steve B. would mainly be a serial, not parallel training system, in that it emphasizes specific motor abilities in each block, one after another. Within each motor ability block the loads may be manipulated in a linear, undulating, or whatever way wished, as long as the necessary training effect is achieved. The parallel component in the Block training as described by Steve B. would be the maintenance training prescribed to extend the residual training effect (I am sure some non-linear loading is used to optimize the effort/reward).

I think it is important to distinguish between the organization of training the different motor abilities, and the actual loading you place on the motor abilities, especially in a sport as complex as Climbing.

Douglas Hunter · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 22

The most important thing the OP wrote was this:

"I'm new to all of this "

Since you are new, I would not recommend jumping into a highly complex and / or long term periodization plan. The timing and control of the training process is difficult for an individual working alone, even if the training program is fairly simple. Controling the training process takes lots of practice, and most people I've seen do not do a very good job with it. So, honestly the first step is learning to be a good manager.

If you have not done it already start by creating a 4 - 6 week plan, maybe go 6 weeks with 3 different periods. Plan it out with a specific number of workouts to be achieved in each phase, stick to the schedule, and document everything. At the end of 6 weeks review what you did: how well you stayed on schedule, what the quality of your training was, what prevented you from training as well as you could have, did you meet the target number of workouts in each phase etc. This exercise will go a long way to helping you know if periodization is something that you will be willing and able to do. If you are successful building a completing a 6 week plan, and found it rewarding, then go ahead and make a 10 - 12 week plan, and see how that goes. As your management/executing skills develop you will be able to add more complexity.

I also recommend "optimizing Strength Training: Designing Nonlinear Periodization Workouts" by Kreamer and Fleck

Steve mentioned it briefly in the video you linked to in the OP (it says more than he suggests). It's a good book as it describes the science behind and the authors work to design programs for athletes who have long competitive seasons and therefore need to train and perform at the same time. It's also good because it contains many pragmatic case studies that offer guidance about how to adjust to real world situations, which is a must for being a good manager of one's own training. It is written from the POV of strength and condition coaches which is a lot different from our perspective as climbers so that always needs to be kept in mind.

Also, the one thing that people overlook the most in doing periodization for climbing is the cognitive aspects of climbing. As climbers our top priority is always to keep developing / refining our movement skills, any training schedule needs to make time for skill development. Then there is the emotional and tactical aspects of climbing, if these are not addressed there will be an artificial limit on your maximum performance level.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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