Edelrid Mega Jul

Emmett,
Apparently there's a replacement coming next year. I'm happy with mine after buying another biner with a very rounded cross section (plus a very small biner as a 'handle' for lowering on raps). No signs of the wire pulling yet.

Syd wrote:Emmett, Apparently there's a replacement coming next year.

Where did you get that information from?

SirChips-A-Lot wrote: Shoulda bought a Misty. Nyah, nyah!

Purchased at REI so returned and DGAF LOLZ

I haven't used the Mega Jul in a while. I've been letting my wife use it because she likes the lock up better than the Smart. I'll probably use it more when it cools off outside.

Moritz B. wrote: Where did you get that information from?

In a recent articel in bergundsteigen 02/2013 (Austrian alpine club) Chris Semmel (IIRC) mentioned in passing that the long cable of the MegaJul was a problem with some biners (e.g. DMM Belay Master) and that Edelrid was adressing the issue in the next generation of the devices.
What else they'll change is anyone's guess, but the device is being redesigned at least slightly.

markus-bw wrote: In a recent articel in bergundsteigen 02/2013 (Austrian alpine club) Chris Semmel (IIRC) mentioned in passing that the long cable of the MegaJul was a problem with some biners (e.g. DMM Belay Master) and that Edelrid was adressing the issue in the next generation of the devices. What else they'll change is anyone's guess, but the device is being redesigned at least slightly.

I think there's a typo ... the cable AND some biners are a problem. The DMM Belay Master looks typical of the biners I tested that don't rap smoothly. The groove in the biner causes lockup ups.

I've been using the Mega Jul extensively and exclusively since May of this year. I really like the device. I was worried for the first week or so about the "smoothness" of the device for lowering and rappelling and given that the first two weeks of use was during a trip to Kalymnos, the device saw a lot of both.

Here are a couple of thoughts.

The device for me seemed to have a break in period. This was both because of the learning curve for the device, as well as the polishing of the device. I truly believe that after a week of use the device simply works better. Not only did I learn how to use it, but even my friends who used the device for the first time had no issues with lowering after the "break in period" (which for me was about 16 sport pitches)

The device is really at its smoothest with ropes under 10mm. I've used the device with 8.5mm doubles and 9.5, 9.8, and 10.2mm singles. For lowering the 10.2mm definitely takes the most pressure on the thumb loop, while the other ropes all work very smoothly with little pressure.

Given that there have been some issues with the thumb loop breaking (not on mine), I've taken to using the biner hole on the inside of the device for rappelling on any rope and lowering with large diameter ropes. This keeps me from putting significant pressure on the thumb loop and I find I really like the action better that way. I'm at a point in the learning curve where I feel I can control descent as well as a grigri with the biner.

My last though is that I'm sure the next generation of this device will be improved (as all new products second generation are). I'll certainly upgrade when the next generations product is available. That said, I have not had a friend try the device and use the device who hasn't been blown away with its simplicity and weight. Almost all of them have either purchased a Jul or commented that their next device will be a Jul.

Been using the mega and micro jul for about 6 months now. These are by far my favorite devices ever. Gave away my Smart Alpines.

Feeding out rope is effortless. Assisted catch is great. Light weight, compact.

Can't think of anything better for an all-purpose belay/rappel device.

Yesterday, was rappeling with my microjoule, and the thumb release came off. Had to continue the rappel using a carabiner to release the device.

Not happy.

Have contacted Scarpa (USA Edelrid distributor)

Will see what they say.

They should braze the cable in.

As another update, I connected with a rep for Edelrid this summer regarding the fact that my Jul was gouging my carabiners pretty badly. They are aware of the issue and plan on releasing a SS Belay biner next year that will address the issue completely.

Picture of my broken device

Edelrid Microjoule failure

Patrick Mulligan wrote:As another update, I connected with a rep for Edelrid this summer regarding the fact that my Jul was gouging my carabiners pretty badly. They are aware of the issue and plan on releasing a SS Belay biner next year that will address the issue completely.

how much will a SS biner weight?

most interesting

;)

The mega jul does have some quirks. I've found it great for inspecting/cleaning projects but I discovered last week that when doing this and getting chalk on the rope, it locked up and wouldn't release without a great deal of tugging and bouncing.

John Wilder wrote: My memory of the device is that you should be using the carabiner on rappel anyway- the thumb trigger is only for feeding slack and releasing the lock mechanism, not for rappelling. At least thats what Edelrid told me when I worked for them.

Its right in the instructions attached to the device.

John Wilder wrote: My memory of the device is that you should be using the carabiner on rappel anyway- the thumb trigger is only for feeding slack and releasing the lock mechanism, not for rappelling. At least thats what Edelrid told me when I worked for them.

and yet elderid shows this method for lowering a climber ...

whats the difference between lowerind and rapping?

why would it break on rap and not lower .... which incidentally is how one my an MPer on the previous page got broken

mega jul from edelrid

;)

Ray Pinpillage wrote: Its right in the instructions attached to the device.

Not really. The instructions say that you "may" use a carabiner when rappelling. Nothing in the instructions telling you not to use the thumb loop when rappelling.

Additionally, the instructions clearly show using the thumb loop for lowering a climber. Same device orientation, same upward force.

bearbreeder wrote: and yet elderid shows this method for lowering a climber ... whats the difference between lowerind and rapping? why would it break on rap and not lower .... which incidentally is how one my an MPer on the previous page got broken ;)

When rapping 100% of your body weight on the device. When lowering someone there is only ~70% of the body weight on the device due to the top anchor friction. For a 175 pound person that's a 50 pound difference.

Allen Corneau wrote: When rapping 100% of your body weight on the device. When lowering someone there is only ~70% of the body weight on the device due to the top anchor friction. For a 175 pound person that's a 50 pound difference.

And what ir lowering a 250 lb person?

The difference for load bearing should be irrelevant ... Or edelrid should give warning on the max weight a person should be if they lower in such a method

What i find interesting is that from the OR as john indicated above and as the link below indicates ... Eldelrid knew of the possibilty of the wire failure yet didnt put out any notice about it

They mention 8 failures as of april 2013 ...

Also interesting is that mr larson used it for 6 months till experiencing this issue ... So even if they fixed it in the new production batches ... If you bought one early, or the one u got today has been sitting in the shop since earlier in the year, u could use it for months and still have it fail

http://www.geoquest-verlag.de/?q=node/455

Translated ...

"From the first batches of a total of 8 units have us actually sent back where the wire was torn out.
In half of the cases we have to assume was that tries after Geoquest articles forcibly pull out the wire.
During rest was actually the compression of the wire obviously not sufficiently strong.
since the units are assembled here in Isny, we were able to respond immediately and have the compression revised. Currently, the wires have an average separation value of 4.5 kN. When used correctly in accordance with instructions for use appear on the wire forces of up to 0.2 kN.
since it is the wire not a safety-related component and reliable brakes the machine easily without a wire and can be used for rappelling, we see where there is no danger."

;)

Allen Corneau wrote: When rapping 100% of your body weight on the device. When lowering someone there is only ~70% of the body weight on the device due to the top anchor friction. For a 175 pound person that's a 50 pound difference.

But when you´re lowering a fat bastard like me the 50lb difference has disappeared.