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Climbing on a core shot rope

Original Post
Peter Hurtgen · · Dallas, TX · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 110

Three months ago I bought a sterling marathon 10.1mm 60m rope and last weekend it got a core shot 10m into it. This rope is really pretty new probably only 35~ pitches on it. Should I cut the end with the core shot off? Should I lead on the opposite end and trust the core shot end to lower off of.(should I weight the core shot?) thoughts? Am I gonna die? Here is a picture of the core shot!

Ian Stewart · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2010 · Points: 155

You'd really trust your life (or somebody else's) on a damaged rope? Even if it were safe to lower with, what happens when somebody inevitably ties into the wrong end? Not to mention any new wear will be exclusively on one end of the rope, which will probably halve its remaining life anyways. You still have 50m of good rope, which is still plenty for lots of crags, and if you really need the extra 10m you can pick up a new 60m rope for $100. Don't be that cheap...

NC Rock Climber · · The Oven, AKA Phoenix · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 60
Peter Hurtgen wrote:Three months ago I bought a sterling marathon 10.1mm 60m rope and last weekend it got a core shot 10m into it. This rope is really pretty new probably only 35~ pitches on it. Should I cut the end with the core shot off? Should I lead on the opposite end and trust the core shot end to lower off of.(should I weight the core shot?) thoughts? Am I gonna die? Here is a picture of the core shot!
Climbing on it sounds like a great idea.
Bryan Hall · · Portland, Oregon · Joined Feb 2008 · Points: 100

Yep, just cut it. I wrap athletic tape directly on core shots, cut straight through it and then burn the end to seal it. Super easy and totally worth it to keep yourself safe and use your rope to the fullest!

Bill Shubert · · Lexington, MA · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 55

Ummm...I'm no expert, but from the look of those fibers, it got up against something sharp that cut through them. Are you sure that the core didn't get at least partially cut also?

I would cut off the damaged section and never use it for anything.

Rob Cotter · · Silverthorne, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 240

It's junk get a new one...

Eric Chabot · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 45

Cut that shit off, burn it and climb on! 50m is long enough for a lot of smaller crags

coldfinger · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 55

Truthfully.....

This was one of those threads where the title says it all.

Nuff said!

William Turner · · Carmel, Indiana · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 0

I would be very comfortable TR'ing on it. Climbing ropes are rated around 5000 pounds the sheath only counts for about 30% of the strength. I would be sure not to take a fall more than five feet. Just keep all the forces static and the rope should only be subject 2 times your weight. So keep it tight and don't rappel fast. That's my 2 cent's.

William Turner · · Carmel, Indiana · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 0

Also do the bend test on it to make sure the core is not damaged if the core is damaged and you use it YOU WILL DIE!!!

Panda Express · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 30
William Turner wrote:I would be very comfortable TR'ing on it. Climbing ropes are rated around 5000 pounds the sheath only counts for about 30% of the strength. I would be sure not to take a fall more than five feet. Just keep all the forces static and the rope should only be subject 2 times your weight. So keep it tight and don't rappel fast. That's my 2 cent's.
Um what? If it was in the gym maybe your logic would apply but 10m from the end...there are alot of situations where that section of rope could rub against rock. Just guessing but I don't think naked cores falling on an edge would hold 70% of the rope's strength.
Peter Hurtgen · · Dallas, TX · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 110

Stop spraying! I cut it! And I'm sure it would have been fine to lower on but it's not really worth the mental fatigue.

20 kN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,346

If the core shot was at the end of the rope and I needed the extra few feet to lower to the ground, I would be fine with using it. However, I would chop it off as soon as I got to the ground. Dont climb on a rope with a core shot. If the sheath fails, your are going to be in trouble. Just because the rope doesnt break in half doesent mean you cant get hurt. If the rope desheaths while you are rappelling, your belay device and the sheath can slide down the core strands until you deck. It certainly has happened.

Benjamin Chapman · · Small Town, USA · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 19,012

Peter......Very disheartening to have a relatively new rope damaged, but either cut the damaged end off or get a new rope. We've had this happen with our last two Sterling ropes. Ask yourself the question....IS IT WORTH RISKING YOUR LIFE FOR $150??

Kip Kasper · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Feb 2010 · Points: 200

just lead on the good end. when that gets super gnarly cut off the bad end and use it as a 50 until it's completely dead.

That's not sketchy and yer not gonna die, as long as you're only single pitch cragging with it.

Moritz B. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 185

To me it looks like you damaged the rope when you pulled it and it got stuck somewhere. You pulled harder until you finally retrieved it - and damaged the sheath.
I have ropes where the sheath is damaged and I still climb on them. I repair damaged sheath with climber´s tape which does a pretty good job.
As long as the core is not damaged I´ll climb on it. On your picture I can´t really tell if you damaged the core. Use your own judgement.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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