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Routes in Headbanger's Wall
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Boys of Summer S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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By Tor & the Cur Dog S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Devotion To The Lotion S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Eagle Block T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Everyone Poops S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Free Tibet S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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God Loves Ugly S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Hammer and a Carrot S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Haunted House, The V12 8A+ PG13 |
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Night Moves S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Reverse Cowgirl S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Shades of Gray S 5.13+ 8b 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Slim Shady S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Some People Poop S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Summer of '69 S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Super Twerk S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Tibet Arête (originally submitted as Track Team) S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Unnamed S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Erik Durgin |
| Page Views: | 1,594 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Erik Durgin on Dec 5, 2012 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Private Property
Details
Climbing at Cascade Canyon is on private property, not US Forest Service land. Climbing on private land is a privilege - please leave no trace and remind other visitors to treat the area with respect.
Description
This is an interesting new route that requires a lot of technical trickery (knee-bars, heel-toe cams, thumbdercling-gastons, etc.) and serious bouldering strength. There are four well-defined boulder problems, all with their own unique flavor, separated by good rests.
The route climbs a lovely, gently overhanging white face capped by a big, steep, blocky bulge. Right off the ground (or cheater stone, I should say) the opening sequence is straight cryptic. From there, technical and pumpy face climbing will bring you to a good rest below the final bulge. Try to get it all back, because the final boulder problem is very physical and gymnastic, ending with a desperate deadpoint to the "jug" you clip the anchors from. Adding to the excitement, it is almost impossible to clip the last bolt on redpoint, forcing you to skip it and go for the anchors!
I would have loved to take this route to the top of the cliff, but unfortunately the upper headwall is covered in a thick layer of mud, forcing me to end it at the lip of the bulge.
The route climbs a lovely, gently overhanging white face capped by a big, steep, blocky bulge. Right off the ground (or cheater stone, I should say) the opening sequence is straight cryptic. From there, technical and pumpy face climbing will bring you to a good rest below the final bulge. Try to get it all back, because the final boulder problem is very physical and gymnastic, ending with a desperate deadpoint to the "jug" you clip the anchors from. Adding to the excitement, it is almost impossible to clip the last bolt on redpoint, forcing you to skip it and go for the anchors!
I would have loved to take this route to the top of the cliff, but unfortunately the upper headwall is covered in a thick layer of mud, forcing me to end it at the lip of the bulge.
Location
About 100 feet down canyon from the prominent Track Team arete is a clean, white face capped by a big, orange/brown bulge. Everyone Poops climbs this face above the cave like feature that makes the boulder problem "Haunted House".
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