TRing on rope w/ core damage

Sdm1568 wrote:Hopefully this isn't the one you traded? Haha

nope that rope was a 9.5 mammut infinity used twice
this rope is a 9.8 edelweiss rocklight that was used and abused heavily

I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say, Most people that smoke weed at the crag smoke it at home too.

But the better question is, do people that smoke weed at the crag use core shot ropes for top roping?

Whoa that's ^^^^^ deep!!!! I think you just posed the question the OP was actually trying to get across - I added a bit to your question.

But the better question is, do people that smoke weed at the crag use core shot ropes that they traded for top roping?

Not sure about smokers but pretty sure tweekers will steal and/or climb on core shot ropes.

coldfinger wrote:Not sure about smokers but pretty sure tweekers will steal and/or climb on core shot ropes.

A truer statement has yet to be spoken : ) haha I don't know of much that a Tweaker won't do

You are probably fine. The core is not going to break on the inside without visible wear on the outside. Not saying to go out and take whips on it, but top roping doesn't cause that much wear. The really is no danger as long as you monitor the situation. The cost of a new rope is a lot to some people, especially when the danger is virtually none.

Kevin DB wrote:You are probably fine. The core is not going to break on the inside without visible wear on the outside. Not saying to go out and take whips on it, but top roping doesn't cause that much wear. The really is no danger as long as you monitor the situation. The cost of a new rope is a lot to some people, especially when the danger is virtually none.

With a little slack or an overhang/swing scenario its pretty easy to generate 1,000 pounds of force. Since you declare it OK I assume you know the strength of the sheath alone, unless of course you don't mind safety margins of zero.

Also, put a big tag on the rope that says "top rope only" so when one of your friends picks it up and start to lead that sport route they don't die.

How many rope "breaks" have been documented over the years? The one in the gym that they think (concluded?) was exposed to battery acid? Any others?

Ropes don't break, they get cut.

• *Also, internet advice is worth what you paid for it.

Cut out a piece around the damaged section, and a short undamaged section, and send them to 20 kN or someone else with a pull tester, so they can do an interesting pull test (more interesting to me than trying to break steel biners, but YMMV).

Matt N wrote:How many rope "breaks" have been documented over the years? The one in the gym that they think (concluded?) was exposed to battery acid? Any others? Ropes don't break, they get cut. **Also, internet advice is worth what you paid for it.

What the hell do engineers know. All those stupid rating numbers, fall factors, number of falls a rope is rated for, usable life, shelf life etc... No one should ever retire a rope...until it gets cut anyway.

personally, extra fuzzy spots where the texture of the core feels off warrant cutting an end off. Or retiring the rope if in the middle.

Also I probably wouldn't climb on a rope that had multiple large pendulums comparable to corona done on it period. just my 2 cents.

rging wrote: What the hell do engineers know. All those stupid rating numbers, fall factors, number of falls a rope is rated for, usable life, shelf life etc... No one should ever retire a rope...until it gets cut anyway.

In practice, today’s ropes will neither break in the attachment knot, nor at the karabiner of a running belay, where the
rope is pivoted in the case of a drop, nor in the partner belay, no matter what belay method is used: the HMS knot, the
figure-of-eight, or any type of brake plate. And in the free rope length a rope will not break in any case.
These facts also hold for 10- or even 15-year-old ropes. This has been proved by many tests of such old ropes (not even 25-year-old ropes and one 30-year-old rope broke in tests in accordance with the standard; they still held at least one drop; this means that they will not break in practice, unless loaded over a sharp edge, in which case they may break)

theuiaa.org/upload_area/fil…

But hey, what do engineers know anyways?

Matt N wrote: In practice, today’s ropes will neither break in the attachment knot, nor at the karabiner of a running belay, where the rope is pivoted in the case of a drop, nor in the partner belay, no matter what belay method is used: the HMS knot, the figure-of-eight, or any type of brake plate. And in the free rope length a rope will not break in any case. These facts also hold for 10- or even 15-year-old ropes. This has been proved by many tests of such old ropes (not even 25-year-old ropes and one 30-year-old rope broke in tests in accordance with the standard; they still held at least one drop; this means that they will not break in practice, unless loaded over a sharp edge, in which case they may break) theuiaa.org/upload_area/fil… But hey, what do engineers know anyways?

Might be relevant, but the issue with a core shot is more often that the sheath might be prone to peeling completely, which tends to make things like belaying or using an ascender more complicated, to say the least.

Yeah, but the OP only wants to TR on it and never stated that the core was actually exposed.

That is correct the only ways I have used this rope since noticing the damage is TR and rappelling. Also correct that the core is NOT exposed.

And 20KN mentioned that even though the two spots fail the bend test, that is most likely the sheath that is causing that and the core is still intact.

My general rule is that if it's bad enough that you have to question whether or not to use/do it - then you probably shouldn't. Like others have said, not worth risking your life.

Matt N wrote: ...they still held at least one drop; this means that they will not break in practice...

That's a ringing endorsement...in practice. Also if you don't have enough money for that fancy climbing rope you would do well to suggest a K-Mart rope. I hear they are 1/10 the cost.

so nobody else in the climbing community has used a questionable LEADING rope for TR purposes only?

dude live ur life, roll the dice use a damaged rope and justify your actions on feedback ya got from mtn project forums