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Routes in Ad. Arch Rock
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Anticipation T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Application T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Bin, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Blotto AKA Axis T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Cosmic Messenger T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dirty Little Secret T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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English Breakfast Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Entrance Exam T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Goldilocks T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Gripper T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Inner Sanctum S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Klemens Escape T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Leanie Meanie T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mad Dogs Direct S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Midterm T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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New Dimensions T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Principle, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Sidetrack T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Supplication T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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TKO T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Torque Converter T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Mark Chapman, Jim Donini 1974 |
| Page Views: | 5,386 total · 27/month |
| Shared By: | Darko Sarenac on Sep 14, 2007 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
The second pitch of this climb is easily the best pitch of this grade at Arch. Apparently there is also a loose pitch 3, but no one ever does it.
Pitch 1: This pitch is really an approach pitch and the climb would be better if you could avoid it. Start on the dirty face with a long right facing corner and another left facing one on either side of you. Climb the face to a tree (5.8) and then traverse left into an obvious fist crack. Belay at the base of the main corner (5.9).
Pitch 2. Climb the thin hands in the corner, and start stemming as the crack narrows down. It helps to have tiny fingers (11a). Move right (10+) and up to hole under a roof with thin hands in the back. It is possible to get a hands free rest by leaning the back of your head on the rock in the hole. Move up on thin flaring hands and a good undercling jug and then right into the final corner. A huge reach gains you a finger lock (11b). The pitch remains sustained.
Pitch 1: This pitch is really an approach pitch and the climb would be better if you could avoid it. Start on the dirty face with a long right facing corner and another left facing one on either side of you. Climb the face to a tree (5.8) and then traverse left into an obvious fist crack. Belay at the base of the main corner (5.9).
Pitch 2. Climb the thin hands in the corner, and start stemming as the crack narrows down. It helps to have tiny fingers (11a). Move right (10+) and up to hole under a roof with thin hands in the back. It is possible to get a hands free rest by leaning the back of your head on the rock in the hole. Move up on thin flaring hands and a good undercling jug and then right into the final corner. A huge reach gains you a finger lock (11b). The pitch remains sustained.
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