A simple question that helped my wife break back into leading

I wrote this article about an experience I had while climbing with my wife, who is trying to break back into leading after a few years off.

masterrockclimber.com/a-sim…

I hope you find it useful.

Thanks,
Don

Not a good tactic on a 5.8, IMHO...

hey, whatever works for her! I am gonna try this trick too on my boyfriend haha! shhhhh i didi not say THAT...

There's a video of someone leading some insane runout, and he just keeps repeating "I'm on top rope if I fall" and inched his way up to send it.

Meme Guy wrote:There's a video of someone leading some insane runout, and he just keeps repeating "I'm on top rope if I fall" and inched his way up to send it.

• a X-rated headpoint on gritstone

hmmm, an alternative to screaming beta repeatedly

Don,

Great to hear Syl is leading again. I think it's a fine question.

To the Naysayers,

If someone can't push their mental limits on a route two-number-grades below their top-rope abilities, with a bolt at their waist, a clean fall and an exceptional belayer, where exactly would you approve?

I think it's a great idea to imagine yourself on top rope. For me, being afraid of a fall is more of the anticipation than the fall itself. If It's a safe fall, why not push yourself and imagine you're on top rope. Pete Whittaker is definitely one of my favorite climbers for his guts with this.

John Byrnes wrote: To the Naysayers, If someone can't push their mental limits on a route two-number-grades below their top-rope abilities, with a bolt at their waist, a clean fall and an exceptional belayer, where exactly would you approve?

This shit works! I was onsight free soloing a route and got scared at the crux. I thought "what would I do on top rope?" and dynoed for an unknown hold. It worked! Now whenever I'm in danger I just assume I'm on tr.

This works in other ways to too. A guy tried to rob me at gunpoint and I thought "what would bruce lee do?" so I roundhoused him in the throat and took his wallet instead.

The question definitely helped in Don's case, so might work well for others.

On the other hand, there have been several cases in which I could not do a route on TR, but immediately went back and led it. So, the committing nature of leading can actually help one do harder moves. In short, the success of the method might depend on the person and the situation.