Crimson Chrysallis question

I've been doing a lot of research on Crimson Chrysalis (might be climbing it soon), but I'm still looking for a bit of info. My main question: how reasonable is this climb for an average 5.8 climber? I do climb 5.9's, but not consistently (not always cleanly). I know this is a super popular climb and typically gets 3-4 stars, but I don't want to get in over my head. Sounds like there are plenty of good holds and some jams. It's the steepness and exposure that really get my attention.

Thanks!

I don't know where you are from, but for example there are no Jtree 5.8 moves on it...most of us consider it quite the cruiser with no obvious cruxes...but due to length, wind, etc....it deserves to be taken serious enough considering your possible experience....can be quite cold as well this time of year. There are very few 5.8's I consider soloing on sandstone, but this is one of them, it is so clean with such positive climbing.

Good Luck.

MtnBound74 wrote:My main question: how reasonable is this climb for an average 5.8 climber?

Not.

Hard to know but your "average" 5.8 climber might get shut down on the wide section on the first pitch. And be slow on some of the steeper sections.

That said...if you're a widely travelled 5.8 climber with solid lead experience on a variety of styles and types of climbing, fit, with a good lead head...maybe a few of the shorter 5.8's in the area under your belt...then git 'er done!

It's pretty casual for 5.8. I don't recall any crux moves that weren't well-protected. It is very exposed for the grade, but that's what makes it so much fun! If you can go out to your local crag and knock out 9 pitches of 5.7 - 5.8 in a day then you shouldn't have a problem with it.

One good thing about Crimson Chrysalis is you rappel the route to descend. So you can bail at any point if you get shut down or run out of daylight.

I say go for it!

Chuck is right.....first time I climbed it we were average 5.8-9 climbers and got up it pretty damn quick. Also had it to ourselves with the exception of Fred Beckey watching us from below the whole way. Mid week on a colder day is how you pull that off....(if you can anymore!)

Worth going for...enjoy.

MtnBound74 wrote: how reasonable is this climb for an average 5.8 climber? I do climb 5.9's, but not consistently (not always cleanly).

It sounds like you might epic if your not used to multi, especially onsighting that many pitches near your max. Although, I have found RR to be softer than most other areas in the SW region. The exposure will be a huge factor if you've never been on an exposed wall like that. The best advice I can give considering it may take longer than normal, don't wait for the gate to open. Park outside the exit gate really early, hike the road, and try to be at the base when the sun is coming up.

It's more important that you are efficient at climbing long multi-pitch routes than worrying about the grade. If every anchor involves a mess of rope coils and half an hour of adjustments you're going to be in for a bad time, but if you can setup and take down anchors quickly you'll have a blast.

Seconding Tom Caldwells advice, start early if this route is near your limit, it gets fairly crowded. I was on it last year about this time we started at noon we passed four parties that had been on it most of the day. two of the parties we passed were still climbing when we hiked out of site at about 3pm. if your not used to Multi pitch and 5.8/9 is your limit Id recommend on trying something a little easier/shorter first.
Red Rocks has more classic moderates than anywhere I have ever been, no need to rush to Crimson Chrysalis, Itll be there.

Cat in The Hat 5.6 600ft Johnny Vegas 5.7 500ft and Birdland 5.7+ 600ft are all worthwhile routes that would be better suited for your first outing in Red Rocks. After youve knocked out one or two of those youll have your multi pitch strategy down a little better, youll have likely worked out some kinks with you and your partner, youll have a feel for the bigger routes at RR. You will overall have a better idea of how realistic Crimson Chrysalis is for you.

Either way, have fun and be safe. I hope I was able to help

A good lesson I learned on that climb was don't let go of your ropes on the raps! My partner let the rope go at the 2nd or 3rd belay station and it swung out and away from us. I had to hook it with a nut tool attached to a sling (a trick I have yet to repeat).

Man we would have looked stupid.

many of the pitches are pretty run out. maybe not at a 5.8 level but make sure your're ready

Peter Franzen wrote:It's more important that you are efficient at climbing long multi-pitch routes than worrying about the grade. If every anchor involves a mess of rope coils and half an hour of adjustments you're going to be in for a bad time, but if you can setup and take down anchors quickly you'll have a blast.

What Peter said. CC was my first 5.8 gear lead, and first trad multipitch, and we made the boneheaded decision to do it as a group of 3. Our poor rope management and general inexperience was exacerbated by the fact that you don't get a belay ledge until P5. That meant that not only did we have to keep two full length ropes organized from a hanging position, but also that I ended up hanging at a couple belays for well over an hour (belay second up, third up, belay leader, wait for second), and it was pretty torturous, especially on my feet/ankles (from pushing off the wall). We also were freezing from not moving for long periods of time.

The climbing and gear were great, and with bolted rap stations, you're not going to get into much trouble. I never felt sketched or runout. However, I wish we'd done P1-4 of Ginger Cracks instead. Belay ledges make a big difference.

Laine wrote:A good lesson I learned on that climb was don't let go of your ropes on the raps! My partner let the rope go at the 2nd or 3rd belay station and it swung out and away from us. I had to hook it with a nut tool attached to a sling (a trick I have yet to repeat). Man we would have looked stupid.

I would have liked to see that!

Thanks for the feedback, everyone. I know that CC is a classic climb and everyone loves it, but I don't think I'm up for it on my first day at RR. I have done some multi-pitch trad/alpine climbing before, but nothing as big and exposed as CC. I'd rather do something w/ less exposure and/or at an easier grade first, then make the call. Right now, I'm thinking about Frogland or Birdland. That being said, I'll be down there over Thanksgiving weekend, so I'm sure we'll be lucky to get on anything...

MtnBound74 wrote:Thanks for the feedback, everyone. I know that CC is a classic climb and everyone loves it, but I don't think I'm up for it on my first day at RR. I have done some multi-pitch trad/alpine climbing before, but nothing as big and exposed as CC. I'd rather do something w/ less exposure and/or at an easier grade first, then make the call. Right now, I'm thinking about Frogland or Birdland. That being said, I'll be down there over Thanksgiving weekend, so I'm sure we'll be lucky to get on anything...

Frogland was harder than CC... A fair bit harder to bail off of as well. Enjoy and don't knock your headlamp off your face while you coil the rope like my friend Tim did!

I just climbed, and led all 9 pitches of CC a couple of weeks ago. Prior to that I had been on sighting 5.8s both single and multi-pitch climbs throughout Red Rock. It went really well. I thought the crux was the chimney/wider section somewhere around end of pitch 2 or 3, can't really remember. Also, having to lead every pitch got to be semi exhausting mentally. It is very exposed, lots of hanging belays and not much of a chance to relax throughout the climb. I think a 5.8 leader should definitely get on CC, but I really think they should take it seriously. Seriously in that they should be parking at Pine Creek at 6:15 and walking in directly. Also, it took us 1 hour and 45 minutes to rappel the route. We were back at the car at 5pm. I really felt like the rappel was the most stressful part. We were ultra diligent and took many precautions to make sure that we didn't stick our rope. Have fun, get on it. It is a 5 star route and world class, despite what some people have to complain about.

Purblind Pillar is a nice step up from Birdland if you are looking for a good 5.8 multipitch experience to develop your endurance and efficiency. 900ft of fun climbing with only two pitches at the grade, comfy belays, and a walk off. mountainproject.com/v/purbl…

Dylan Weldin wrote: Frogland was harder than CC... A fair bit harder to bail off of as well. Enjoy and don't knock your headlamp off your face while you coil the rope like my friend Tim did!

Frogland land was definitely harder than CC. Requiring more trad experience and building anchors. On CC, my partner and I placed like 3-4 cams on the entire route (It is WAAAAYYY over bolted and we climb RR 5.10 pretty comfortably). I say go for Birdland. An easier route and you rap the route to get off. Frogland is a walk off