Mountain Project Logo

Purcell Prusik as a Personal Anchor System

Original Post
IanHunter · · Golden, Colorado · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 45

I am becoming a huge fan of the Purcell Prusik. I have read a little and experimented a little with the standard Purcell Prusik that has an additional prusik loop added. This second loop can be clipped into a second anchor point. See below picture. This system makes the tether highly customizable and gives it amazing adjustability while moving around.

Has anyone had any experience or input for this system as a Personal Anchor System?

Purcell Prusik Anchor system with Second Anchor Tether

Will Cohen · · Denver, Co · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 80

I like the idea behind it, but I could never justify making one when a clove hitch on the rope is just as adjustable and quick with no added weight.

cerickson · · Portland, OR · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 245

Your purcell seems a bit overly complicated. Purcells are excellent tools and useful in several companion/counterbalance rescue situations. I use them all the time, in many applications, but my go-to PAS for most multi-pitch climbing is:

Primary - Regular Purcell
Back-up - Clove from Rope.

The one in your picture, to me, seems to have an extra moving part or two that starts to degrade the simplicity vs. functionality ratio.

Patrick Shyvers · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 10

I'm with these guys, it's a neat idea but it seems overly complicated, and the purcell-prusik still isn't redundant. That said I do use a combo of basic purcell-prusik + clove hitch; gives me more flexibility and options.

It might be nice for straightforward single-pitch sport climbing, but in that circumstance I'd probably just use a pair of slings and never climb above the anchor. Even simpler, lighter.

P.S. It looks like the PP is girth hitched to the belay loop in the photo. Most folks I know would suggest girth hitching to the tie-in loops instead.

Jared Garfield · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 5

I just like to clove in with the rope, its quick, it's easy, and it's still safe, why not use it?

Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

use something similar when dealing with static systems, otherwise I just use cloved rope as my primary, and a pas as a quick utility tie-in/back-up.

cdec · · SLC, UT · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 654

Just wondering why anyone feels the need to back up when tied in with a clove?
You feel comfortable with 60, 70 or 80 meters of single cord between you and the belayer but when there's only a foot between you and the masterpoint it needs to be backed up?

If somehow the rope between you and the masterpoint gets the chop your not going to be left standing either.

Sometimes some things don't need to be redundant.

IanHunter · · Golden, Colorado · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 45

Thanks for the words of wisdom guys!!

Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

probably alpine/transitional terrain where I need to get exposed without the rope, or if I needed to untie from the rope, for some reason and also grab an anchor; works well for a jumar or also a tyrol transition to an anchor. It's just nice to have a quick adjustable tie-in.

IanHunter · · Golden, Colorado · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 45
Buff Johnson wrote:probably alpine/transitional terrain where I need to get exposed without the rope, or if I needed to untie from the rope, for some reason and also grab an anchor. It's just nice to have a quick adjustable tie-in.
This is a situation where I feel that this system would be useful.
Patrick Shyvers · · Fort Collins, CO · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 10
Ian Green wrote:This is a situation where I feel that this system would be useful.
No disagreement that a PAS can come in handy, but if you're clipping to a bolt you've probably only got one to clip to, and if you're setting a couple pieces just add a sling to join them. As I said, I like the purcell-prusik, just questioning the add-on second attachment point.
Matt Shove · · Ragged Mountain · Joined May 2007 · Points: 236

This is worth a read.
strikerescue.com/Purcell-Pr…

Doug S · · W Pa · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 55

I love the purcell prussic for a PAS! I use whatever suits the occasion to make it redundant: When climbing trad, I use it to clip to my first piece, then clove to the master point. On sport, I clip it first to one bolt, then use the sling from that bolt to clip the other bolt to my belay loop. I'm not sure I'd want that extra prussic on my harness like you have pictured, but it's a cool idea maybe for other applications.

IanHunter · · Golden, Colorado · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 45

For those of you that use the purcell-prusik, have you tried a PP made from dynamic prusik cord?

Doug S · · W Pa · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 55

7 mil static cord.

bearbreeder · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 3,065

I use 8mm dynamic half rope thats has alpine butterflies and is terminated by a barrel knot as a PAS

It should take one factor 2 fall, and keep the impact force under 8 KN or so

I personally found the purcell hard to adjust one handed

;)

Max Supertramp · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 95

yer gunna die.

7mm static. love it for aid.

Max Supertramp · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 95

cloves supposedly slip at 2.5 kn. tested it? nope.

cdec · · SLC, UT · Joined Jan 2007 · Points: 654
Max Supertramp wrote:cloves supposedly slip at 2.5 kn. tested it? nope.
Geir did. Broke the rope at 2700 lbs. Didn't slip! geir.com/mythbuster.html

"The clove hitch does not slip under body weight. Jeff Fassett and I pull tested a clove hitch tied around a carabiner with a heavily-used 9.6mm rope. After tieing it on a carabiner, we tightened it by pulling it to 1150 pounds. Tightening the knot required one end of the clove hitch to be pulled out about 5 inches. (Tape was used to mark the starting point on the load strand). The clove was then pull tested to failure. No slip occurred as it was pulled to higher loads. Ultimately, even when pulled to failure, the clove hitch did not allow rope to slide through. The rope broke at the clove hitch at 2700 pounds."
Petsfed 00 · · Snohomish, WA · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 989

I don't see the need for additional loops, but that could just be me. Easier, as others pointed out, to just use a clove-hitch (or figure-8 on a bite, if I'm paranoid) for the times when I need to put a belay-load on it, and use a spare sling in other applications.

Also, I have mine tied through the tie-in points with a figure-8-retrace. Although its semi-permanent, there's no cord-on-belay loop concerns, and the harness fits right, even when I'm hanging from it. Your system looks needlessly complicated for what it is.

Injured Climber · · Bloomington, MN · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 0

Agree with what most people here said about the additional Prusik...not necessary. Furthermore, based on your diagram, I would say it could be dangerous (!) because it looks like your Purcell is a component of your entire anchor and serves as equalization. This will make escaping you anchor difficult in an emergency because you are permanently attached to it. You would need to rebuild your anchor with some other material in that situation. Your anchor is also not ideally equalized, the lower anchor point actually bears more weight than the upper. I do think the Purcell has an application as a quick tie in. For example, if you're at some tricky hanging belay and you need to clip yourself in quickly before the clove comes on or maybe clipping to some piece of protection for french freeing or whatnot. That being said, it is also good to know how to tie a clove hitch with one hand- that takes care of the anchor situation. But the Purcell can be useful and there is a reason guides like it a lot. I use it on longer routes sometimes. The other thing I don't like about your setup is the girth hitch on the belay loop. Girth hitches are weak knots and when they are tied taught like that they are at their weakest. I would thread it through both strong points or, ideally, use another knot. Lastly, the main reason I stopped using the Purcell regularly is that when you always keep it on your harness, it wears the harness down. It constantly rubs against your belay loop and strong points. With the girth hitch like you have it, that's going to cause major wear (another reason to thread through strong points) This is especially true for more dynamic chords. So even though being dynamic is an advantage, its also a real big disadvantage. I believe that Todd Skinner died as a result of the wear caused by a sling girth hitched to his harness. His belay loop broke...so it is a very real concern. I noticed some unusual wear on my metolius waldo big wall harness (which has two belay loops and is made to be really tough) and that's when I stopped keeping it on my harness save for special occasions. You don't get that kind of wear with a climbing rope and I suspect it is because its strands typically have a tighter weave and because of its greater diameter, it exerts less force on a specific point. So keep all this in mind when you use the Purcell.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "Purcell Prusik as a Personal Anchor System"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.