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Replacement pitons in Eldo?

Original Post
The Blueprint Part Dank · · FEMA Region VIII · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 460

After climbing the Yellow Spur again this weekend, I got to talking with my climbing partner about how good the pitons are on the 10b variation to the 5th pitch. The conversation started to ramble a bit, and I remembered that a while ago someone had posted a flow-chart on here about how to fix/replace/remove a piton based on the climbing guidelines for Eldo. One of the options was to remove the original piton and replace it with a new piton (and if that wasn't possible, a bolt was then up for debate).

We both racked our brains on this, and couldn't think of a single instance where we'd clipped a piton in Eldo that looked like it was a brand new replacement for an old pin. It seemed to us like, while an option available to climbers there. It isn't one that is used often, if at all.

What am I missing, where have you guys/gals seen brand new pitons in old pin scars in Eldo?

Dave Holliday · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2003 · Points: 1,078

I believe Northcutt Start and the first pitch of Over the Hill have both had pitons replaced within the last few years.

Edit: ixnay on the Northcutt Start; not sure why I had it in my mind that it had updated hardware.

Greg D · · Here · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 883

Because pins are not stainless or galvanized they don't look new for very long. I'm sure Gregger Man or others will have many more examples of replacements. I think the flow chart does a good job of preserving the nature and history of Eldo.

Btw, the 10b part of pitch 5 has bolts.

Bapgar 1 · · Out of the Loop · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 90
Greg D wrote: Btw, the 10b part of pitch 5 has bolts.
It's been a long time but I was going to say, I don't recall clipping any pins at the top of Yellow Spur.

Over the Hill is the only route I can say for sure that I've climbed both w/ pins in place and with some pins not there. But pins do tend to come and go on a lot of different lines.
mt.wilson · · Golden, CO · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 45

The 5th pitch of yellow spur starts with several pins. That pitch has so many pins and bolts, even if they are somewhat old/questionable, that I never clip all of them.

I doubt the northcutt start has new pins, unless somebody started making ring pins recently... Pretty sure that is the original pin.

Gregger Man · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 1,769

Yes, there are old pins in Eldo that have been replaced with new pins.
The crux pin on Rincon is an example - (check the comments: Rincon )
Since like-for-like replacements don't have to go through the public process, individuals often get a permit and do the work without anyone except the park knowing. Since hammers aren't standard kit anymore, pin maintenance is probably rarer than it used to be.
There are opportunities for modern gear near many Eldo pins, so don't assume that the pin is like a bolt on a sport route: 'I guess that's what I'm s'posed to clip, and it's all I get.' It's reliability is unknown, and that is simply the nature of a piton. Caveat ascensor.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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