Replacement pitons in Eldo?
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After climbing the Yellow Spur again this weekend, I got to talking with my climbing partner about how good the pitons are on the 10b variation to the 5th pitch. The conversation started to ramble a bit, and I remembered that a while ago someone had posted a flow-chart on here about how to fix/replace/remove a piton based on the climbing guidelines for Eldo. One of the options was to remove the original piton and replace it with a new piton (and if that wasn't possible, a bolt was then up for debate). |
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I believe Northcutt Start and the first pitch of Over the Hill have both had pitons replaced within the last few years. |
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Because pins are not stainless or galvanized they don't look new for very long. I'm sure Gregger Man or others will have many more examples of replacements. I think the flow chart does a good job of preserving the nature and history of Eldo. |
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Greg D wrote: Btw, the 10b part of pitch 5 has bolts.It's been a long time but I was going to say, I don't recall clipping any pins at the top of Yellow Spur. Over the Hill is the only route I can say for sure that I've climbed both w/ pins in place and with some pins not there. But pins do tend to come and go on a lot of different lines. |
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The 5th pitch of yellow spur starts with several pins. That pitch has so many pins and bolts, even if they are somewhat old/questionable, that I never clip all of them. |
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Yes, there are old pins in Eldo that have been replaced with new pins. |