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Save the Shrimp
5.9- YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 16 ZA HVS 4c British PG13
Avg: 3.1 from 21
votes
Routes in Left of main southeast face
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Crimpers delight T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Esoteric T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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Lucky 13th (CRS) pitch 1 - 5.10c, pitch 2 5.11+ T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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On second thought T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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One Pitch Wonder T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sailor Moon T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Save the Shrimp T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Scarecrow T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Seam of Dreams T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Spooktacular T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Treat T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Trick T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Unknown T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Unknown 2 T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Zombie Spoof T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | 1980 JD & SF |
| Page Views: | 8,502 total · 54/month |
| Shared By: | Fussman on Jun 15, 2011 |
| Admins: | Ky Bishop, Steve Lineberry, Aaron Parlier |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th) - New online pass system
Details
All routes between and including Southwest Arete to Mainline are closed. fs.usda.gov/detail/nfsnc/ne…
As of 2021, there is a new online method for acquiring day and annual passes to Whitesides here: recreation.gov/activitypass…. $3 for a day pass, $15 for an annual pass.
As of 2021, there is a new online method for acquiring day and annual passes to Whitesides here: recreation.gov/activitypass…. $3 for a day pass, $15 for an annual pass.
Description
This route has friction, cracks, traverses, overhangs, water grooves and more and is an absolute blast. There are some areas where the route is run out, but at most of the critical areas there is sufficient pro. You can easily exit the route at pitch 2.
Pitch 1 is primarily friction - 5.7Crux
Pitch 2 is friction, a dihedral crack, face climbing and overhang finish into a cave-You can walk off the route from here if desired. Crux5.7-5.8
Pitch 3 is 3 progressive overhangs with great rest points - Crux5.8
Pitch 4 is friction - Crux5.8
Pitch 5 starts with a 15ft crack to a water groove and then huge ledge - Crux5.8
Pitch 6 starts with a overhang off the ledge and then follows a water groove with face climbing, ending with another overhang and face climbing. - Crux5.8
The crux of the route is about halfway into the route transitioning from the lower face to the upper face. The 4th pitch has a traverse with little pro (at least back in the 80's). I would assume by now that some bolts have been added to key areas of the route. The entire route was originally done with sparse pro, sparse bolts, tricams and stoppers. Modern gear makes it much more enjoyable and protected.
Pitch 1 is primarily friction - 5.7Crux
Pitch 2 is friction, a dihedral crack, face climbing and overhang finish into a cave-You can walk off the route from here if desired. Crux5.7-5.8
Pitch 3 is 3 progressive overhangs with great rest points - Crux5.8
Pitch 4 is friction - Crux5.8
Pitch 5 starts with a 15ft crack to a water groove and then huge ledge - Crux5.8
Pitch 6 starts with a overhang off the ledge and then follows a water groove with face climbing, ending with another overhang and face climbing. - Crux5.8
The crux of the route is about halfway into the route transitioning from the lower face to the upper face. The 4th pitch has a traverse with little pro (at least back in the 80's). I would assume by now that some bolts have been added to key areas of the route. The entire route was originally done with sparse pro, sparse bolts, tricams and stoppers. Modern gear makes it much more enjoyable and protected.
Location
Approx 150 feet along the first remants of cliff on the trail that goes to the main face. You will go past a gulley that goes up the left side of the face. The exit is approx 150 feet below the trail that is on the top of the mountain. There is the remnants of a trail through the trees at the top. Take the main trail down to the parking lot.
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