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Favorite .12a/b routes in Clear Creek/surrounding area?

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Robert Daniel · · Golden, CO · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 225

Just wanted to gauge what people's favorite .12a/b routes are in the Clear Creek area. Looking to work a good one. I have onsighted some .11a/b's but have never attempted a .12

Thanks.

Mike Humphries · · Arvada, CO · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 85

I'd say some of the best low grade 12's in CCC are wet dream (wall of nineties), power trip (anarchy), and peer pressure (highlander)

peer pressure is coming into season right now

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103

peer pressure and convicted felon are probably a couple of my favorites.

Greg Twombly · · Conifer, CO · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 275

I think the best entry level 5.12's are:
Power Trip 5.12a on Anarchy
City Slickers 5.12a on Primo
Hipster 5.12a on Hipster
These are all short, with positive holds, good clipping stances and really fun movement. In my opinion Wet dream is long and pumpy for an entry level 12, and Peer Pressure is intimidating, with the belay off a ledge and an exposed position.

Jonny Greenlee · · Denver, CO · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 280

The Hipster (12a) has a lot of fun movement in 50ft of climbing.

Robert Daniel. wrote:Just wanted to gauge what people's favorite .12a/b routes are in the Clear Creek area. Looking to work a good one. I have onsighted some .11a/b's but have never attempted a .12 Thanks.
climberish · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 10
Greg Twombly wrote:I think the best entry level 5.12's are: Power Trip 5.12a on Anarchy City Slickers 5.12a on Primo Hipster 5.12a on Hipster These are all short, with positive holds, good clipping stances and really fun movement. In my opinion Wet dream is long and pumpy for an entry level 12, and Peer Pressure is intimidating, with the belay off a ledge and an exposed position.
I don't see how Peer Pressure is intimidating at all or how the position is exposed. I wouldn't even call that a ledge. You can have 4 or 5 people comfortable and safely sitting up there.
Monty · · Golden, CO · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 3,530

+1 for Wet Dream and Convicted Fellon

Balkan Dirt Diving 12a Sports Wall
Slammer 12b Wall of Justice

While it's given a 12b/c, Ken Tanks should definitely on that list.

North table has a couple good routes such as
Mrs Hen Places a Peck 11d
and Pseudo Bullet 12a

Mark E Dixon · · Possunt, nec posse videntur · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 974
Andyabs wrote: I don't see how Peer Pressure is intimidating at all or how the position is exposed. I wouldn't even call that a ledge. You can have 4 or 5 people comfortable and safely sitting up there.
It's hard for the belayer to see the climber on much of this route if you are on the ledge. Better to use a 70 m rope and belay from the ground. Furthermore, it's kind of spicy up high.
Starts with crack climbing too, maybe that's good or bad, depending on the OP's skill set.
Fred Bonnard · · Boulder, CO · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 165

I would add Quartz sport to the list, more solid 12b than entry level but so good!

Robert Daniel · · Golden, CO · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 225

Awesome thanks for the input

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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