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Routes in Lizard Head Wall
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Another Day At The Office T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Blue Collar Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Cashmere Crack T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Delicacy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Errant Edge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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King Lizard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Life of the Party T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Manager's Special T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Maverick Line T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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On the Wings of Maybe S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Part Time Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Red Neck Slab T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Squeeze My Lemon T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Tangerine T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown Slab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Unknown Slab/Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wings of Perception T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Zesty T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Zigzag T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 185 ft (56 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | C. Watson, G. Kirchhoff, D. Ward, B. Perkins |
| Page Views: | 6,862 total · 36/month |
| Shared By: | Sunny-D on Jun 12, 2008 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Pitch 1: Climb the arete up to a high bolt and contiue up to the base of a sweeping crack or begin the climb in the corner on the left using the small crack in the wall for gear. Either way, once at the headwall climb to a comfortable stance and stand in a right sweeping, arching crack the starts horizontally. Follow the crack proper all the way up to a set of anchors. (115 feet)
Pitch 2: Lean right off the anchor and follow a double crack system to a great stance and chain anchor. (65 feet)
This route was cleaned out by Gregg, Clay and Dallen.
Pitch 2: Lean right off the anchor and follow a double crack system to a great stance and chain anchor. (65 feet)
This route was cleaned out by Gregg, Clay and Dallen.
Location
This Route starts in/on the corner just west of Zesty. Climb the arete proper to a bolt and continue up until you reach the base of the swooping crack or follow the left-side corner up and step on the shelf 50 feet up.
Protection
Standard rack -- nuts, tcu's through 3.5 or 4 BD cam. There are a total of 3 sets and chain anchors for the rap. Can be done with a 60 M rope.
Pitch one can be done from the ground and back using a 70m rope only. If you do this Watch Your Ends as a 70m will just barely get you back to the belay.
Pitch one can be done from the ground and back using a 70m rope only. If you do this Watch Your Ends as a 70m will just barely get you back to the belay.
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