Type: Trad, 160 ft (48 m), 3 pitches
FA: Fred Beckey and Roslyn Stewart '61
Page Views: 43,238 total · 179/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on May 1, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route


698 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Beckey's Wall climbs the prominent right facing dihedral just right of Satan's Corner and left of Tarzan. Pitches 1 and 2 are often combined.

P1) Climb up slabby low angle dihedral for a short pitch to get to a set of chain anchors. (5.6)

P2) Continue up the dihedral, doing some fun stemming up to a piton. Then climb up the steep dihedral, using flakes on the left face. Finish at a ledge with 3 bolts with chains. (5.7)

From here, one option is to rap to the top of pitch 1, and then to the ground. Otherwise, continue up an easier wide crack to a belay with rap chains.  Use a 60m rope to get to the chains atop P2, then a short rap to the base.  Older comments mention long walk offs but you can now just rap the whole route from the top of P3.

Protection Suggest change

Standard Rack. Mostly smaller stuff, but I placed up to a #3 camalot.

History Suggest change

This is [part of] a letter from Fred recently about the FA of Beckey's Wall. I thought it deserved to be saved and pasted here. The guy has unlimited energy, no question about that. This does clear up any of the previous dispute about fixed gear originally placed on this climb. I think it is great for the record:

"Yes, I did the route with Roslyn Stewart. The guidebook people sure are slow getting it changed. I know Eric B. told them more than once we did not place a bolt anywhere. Likely we rapped from pitons or trees. My guess is that we did it in 2 pitches. I have a shot on the climb, looking down; a poor but visible photo.

"Across the canyon, yes, Kor and I did something. I think the book prob. has it right."

—James Garrett

Photos

loading