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The 2013-2014 Colorado Ice Conditions Thread

Kevin Craig · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 325

Notchtop NE face appears pretty wind-loaded with a cornice and sluffs above and on route (photo). Looked like AMU was getting some wind load too.

NE Face route on Notchtop, 11/2/13.
Upper section of route.
Also here's a photo of the N face of Thatchtop showing Necro and the "Upper Wall" discussed in the Rossiter guide; the latter looks pretty interesting. Appears to be a ton of ice at the top of the NW (NE?) gully route.
Necro and the "Upper Wall".

Eric Klammer · · Eagle, CO · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 2,070

Some more Notchtop pictures as of 11/2... As is stated above, the N/E face is extremely wind loaded with a large cornice along most of the ridge. We saw a small slide come down from about midway up the left side this afternoon. Also, Hot Doggie(?) is looking great!

Notchtop ice.

Notchtop ice.

Notchtop ice.

Notchtop ice.

Mike Pharris · · Longmont, CO · Joined May 2007 · Points: 125

Wind loading is in full effect In the Park. Found waist deep drifts above Loch Vale on 11/2.

Kevin Craig · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 325

Loch Vale ice is, like everywhere else, going off. Mixed Emotions might even touch down - well maybe not but it's got more ice than I've ever seen! The climb that I believe is called Crystal Meth in Robert's first book and called Loch Ness Monster elsewhere (???) is in very nice shape with good ice for pro and several interesting variations. Running a lot of water still so should only get better. Tons of other good and leadable stuff there too. Great day (11/3) below treeline when the winds were howling up high.

Drake · · California · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 25

We climbed All Mixed Up on 10/28. It was fat. I wouldn't rate it above WI3+ at the steepest parts. Protects very well with screws everywhere. Hurry up and get it before the snow on the approach makes it impossible!

Base of All Mixed Up.

coop Best · · Glenwood Springs, CO · Joined Jan 2005 · Points: 485

Anyone know if the Leadville ice is in?

GLD · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 83

Super jealous of all that fat RMNP ice! We went up to Hourglass Couloir and were super excited on the approach with ice everywhere! The approach beat us up pretty bad with lots of postholing. Did the first half of the route and then bailed because of time constraints/turn-around time. NO ICE! Lots of cornices to hack through but no ice.

Black Lake around the corner I would expect to be in fat.

Jason Antin · · Golden, CO · Joined May 2009 · Points: 1,375

Anyone been on Dreamweaver within the last week or so?

Dave Bn · · Boise, ID · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 10

Sounds like the approach to Hourglass was sucky but anyone know what the trail's like to Black Lake proper?

Hoping to not need skis on Thursday and doesn't look like much snow fell last night.

Andy Hansen · · Longmont, CO · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 3,130

Any news on Officer's Gulch?

Taylor-B. · · Valdez, AK · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 3,186

Officers Gulch is in, but the avalanche danger is an issue. In the last 48hrs in Summit County we've had a big wind event, 5-10in of snow and another wind event is suppose to occur on Wed-Thurs.
Three Tiers- In, this is about a 1,300ft route this year, with ice up high, but the lower pitches are thin. Some climbers plowed up the route a few days ago.
Chimney- In
Around the Corner Area- In, including all the climbs up that drainage.
Tony's Nightmare- Out
Tres Amigos- Looking good

The upper section of Three Tiers with some climbers on the route.

GLD · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 83
Dave Bn wrote:Sounds like the approach to Hourglass was sucky but anyone know what the trail's like to Black Lake proper? Hoping to not need skis on Thursday and doesn't look like much snow fell last night.
We split off from a trail for sure, it went at least for a little while further than our split off. I'd like to know more too
Dave Bn · · Boise, ID · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 10
GLD wrote: We split off from a trail for sure, it went at least for a little while further than our split off. I'd like to know more too
I take it no skis needed to where you split off?
michael voth · · Ft. Collins, CO · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 75

anyone notice what the right side of the all mixed up cirque looks like, ie. pipe organ etc.?

GLD · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2012 · Points: 83
Dave Bn wrote: I take it no skis needed to where you split off?
Interesting question, no skis needed but aside from Mill Lake where it gets rocky, sunny, and flat skis would have been nice to have.

All mixed up looked real nice, we probably should have gone for that again.
Andrew McLean · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 370

Any update on Officer's Gulch? Its getting colder

Cor · · Sandbagging since 1989 · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 1,445

Did Drew miss something from 6hours ago?

Chris Wenker · · Santa Fe · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 1,887
Burns Gulch, 11-2-13.

Burns Gulch was by far the fattest thing around Silverton last weekend. But it was probably ignored in preference for First Gully et al. Also, DNF was solid ice all the way.
Andrew McLean · · Boulder, CO · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 370
Cor wrote:Did Drew miss something from 6hours ago?
Why yes i did! Thanks
phil wortmann · · Colorado Springs, Co. · Joined Feb 2005 · Points: 1,186

Cool line in the south cirque, pikes Peak.

Southern Circus, Pike's Peak. WI5, M7, 400 ft.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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