Type: Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches
FA: Gene Vallee & Andy Ross
Page Views: 935 total · 6/month
Shared By: apross on Apr 22, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

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Description Suggest change

A nice mellow route with lots of natural pro and big belay ledges.
Highly recommended for a first time route in the area.

P1. Start up left facing corner to a big block below bolt. Move up left to a corner where at the top move 30ft left to belay. 5.6 100ft.

P2. Follow the long right leaning crack with good gear to a big ledge. Small cam, good wire belay on the ledge to the left. 5.7 Rope stretcher 200ft

P3. Scramble left to below a right facing corner. Up this with good wires at the start to a big ledge, move right to bolt anchor below a large V groove. 5.6 60ft

P4. Up the groove then move right to belay. 5.6 120ft.

P5. Move up and right to bolt. Face climb up to a big ledge, move left to below another V groove. Good cams belay. 5.6 100ft.

P6. Romp up the groove to the top. 5.4 100ft.

Summit register cairn on left (south) summit. To descend, go 100 yards south and rap down It's only rock and roll. When down to big ledge, go 100 yards south again. Check pic/topo of "Rock and Roll" to better locate anchors on the way down.

Location Suggest change

Drive the road to Two Finger Canyon. From here hike south on the flats .When entrance to One Finger Canyon is reached (about 30mins)walk to near its mouth then hike up to the left to where it levels .Continue to the formation (see topo)

Protection Suggest change

Cams from 1/2" to 3", Set of wires, Slings & QD's. Two 60m ropes for rap.

Photos

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