The Emperor (aka Pea Soup)
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 4 from 22 votes
Type: | Trad, 105 ft (32 m) |
FA: | FFA: Tony Yaniro and Brett Maurer |
Page Views: | 5,873 total · 46/month |
Shared By: | Aaron Cassebeer on Oct 30, 2013 |
Admins: | Cory B, Matthew Fienup, Muscrat, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Description
This route was described by Randy Leavitt as, "The best crack at the Needles." Despite this description, the route seems to have fallen into Needles obscurity maybe due to the difficult approach, lack of an updated guidebook, and general difficulty of the climb. However, this route inspires the imagination and those who seek it out will not be disappointed.
The Emperor is a pure granite crack climb. As are most Needles routes, it is sustained in nature. The rock is spectacular, the gear is textbook, and the position is amazing. The first pitch can be top-roped (barely) with a 60m rope, although a 70m is recommended. The climb (Pea Soup) continues for several more pitches to the top, but only the first is described here.
The Emperor is a pure granite crack climb. As are most Needles routes, it is sustained in nature. The rock is spectacular, the gear is textbook, and the position is amazing. The first pitch can be top-roped (barely) with a 60m rope, although a 70m is recommended. The climb (Pea Soup) continues for several more pitches to the top, but only the first is described here.
Location
This route is located on the south face of Voodoo Dome. The start is difficult to find and explain - perhaps this is part of the adventure. It is possible to reach the base by foot on easy terrain. Once at the base of the cliff, most will choose to rope-up and approach the climb from climber's right, although it is possible to solo easily 5th class.
7 Comments