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Heisenberg
5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British
Avg: 3.9 from 18
votes
Routes in Booty Wall Area
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36 Yarrgs T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Back That Ass Up Traverse T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Captain Hook T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Crystal Left T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Death of a Monarch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Gateway Drug T,S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Heisenberg T,S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Pirate Treasure S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Scallywaggers T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Straight to Rehab S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Under Pressure S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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White Lines T,S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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X Marks the Spot S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
| Type: | Trad, Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Mike Perkins, Clay Watson |
| Page Views: | 8,255 total · 65/month |
| Shared By: | tenesmus on Oct 25, 2013 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
Location
5th class or climb one of the routes in the vicinity of SPF 50, then veer right in the notch just above the first pitch, heading for the biggest roof you see. This is also directly above Gateway Drugs, which might be a decent warmup to the steepness.
The first 30 feet are shared with White Lines. There is a bolt right at the bottom of the line, then gear, then a bolt on the face, then a little alcove/corner with a bolt. This is where W.L. splits up and left through the crack in the roof. Heisenburg stays on the steeper features for four bolts and finishes on the apex of the steepest wall.
Protection
.4 to #2 camalot, draws.
I'm a little freaked out that people sometimes lead this all on gear. Please know that the only reason I added the bolts is that my body weight pulled out some of the blocks that create those potential gear placements.
Rappel: The best way to rap down from the top of both Heisenberg and White Lines is to go off the top of the last two bolts on either climb (ie off the two fixed draws of Heisenberg). It's pretty simple but takes a few steps.
1) Have the last climber clean the gear up to the last bolts.
2) Lower that person down to the anchor of Gateway Drugs/Straight to Rehab, have them schlepp in and stay tied in to the rope.
3) Gather your belongings from the base of White Lines/Heisenberg and get ready to rap your end of the line.
4) The still-tied-in climber at Gateway Drugs anchor acts as ballast as the other climber raps a single down to join them.
5) One 35m rap to the ground.
6) Think about taking a lap on Gateway Drugs or Straight to Rehab because they are also super fun.
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