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Waimea Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Waimea

L › R R › L A › Z

	All the Way-A S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Aquarius S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Barracuda S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
	Big Kahuna S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Bonzai Pipeline T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Bottom Feeder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Butt Bongo Fiesta S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Catch the Wave S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Charlie Don't Surf S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	China Beach S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
	China Glide S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c
	Cold War S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
	Concrete Jungle S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Coral Sea S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Cote d'Azure S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Cyberblock S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
	Dodge the Lemons S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
	Don't Get Out of the Boat S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	E-Ticket S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Fly, The S 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c
	Flying Fish S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Flying Hawaiian S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Gold Coast S 5.13c/d 8b 31 X 31 E8 7a
	Great White S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Groupie Fantasy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Hawaii 5-O T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
	Jaws II S 5.15a 9a+ 36 XI+ 37 E11 7c
	Livin' Astro S 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b
	Localmotion S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Long Board S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Luau S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Man Overboard S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Mauie Wowie S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
	Mr. Gerbick (Refined) S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
	Muscle Beach S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Open Project S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Open Project (Bill Clinton) S 5.15 9b 37 XII 38 E11 8a
	Original Tsunami T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b A3-4 R
	Restless Native S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Rhythm X S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Riviera S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
	Riviera Don't Surf (Aka Riverboat Charlie) S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
	Short Board S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Sidewalk Surfing S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Silver Surfer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Sinister 6000 S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
	Spiny Dogfish TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Style That's Free, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
	Suburban S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
	Surf's Up T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
	TABDITO S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Technosurfing S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	That Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	They Died Surfing S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
	Tsunami S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Tuna Fish is Ludacris S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
	Urban Surfer S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
	Vantage Point TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Waimea S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Waimea The Weenie Way T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Whip Tide S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

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Elevation:	971 ft
GPS:	43.80386, -71.84091 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Jay Knower on Oct 2, 2006 · Updates
Admins:	Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Waimea is the flagship crag at Rumney and home of some of the hardest routes in the country. The schist looks like a crashing wave. Routes climb up the imposing overhanging features. My friend Lee constantly worried that Waimea would tip over because of its undercut nature. I think a bigger worry is the humbling that tends to happen to the climber on these powerful and technical routes.

Waimea faces south and slightly west. The crag gets sun in the afternoon. Many of the routes, because of their steep angle, stay dry in the rain.

Getting There

The approach is long by sport climbing standards. Park in the lot. DO NOT PARK ALONG THE ROAD. From the small parking lot, take the shortcut trail across the hillside, passing Bonsai on the way. Follow this trail up the hill, to the right side of Waimea. It's also possible to hike up from Lower Darth Vader. Expect 30 minutes of walking.

Project Draws

On December 7, 2013, all of Waimea was stripped of fixed draws. Many of the draws were in really bad shape. If (when?) you put draws on your project, please put up quality quickdraws. Hanging your old junk draws on your project might seem like a good idea at the time, but many subsequent climbers will be cursing you as they clip the mank that you hung on the route. So, take one for the team, go get some new draws, and hang those on your project.

Mercifully, stainless perma-draws are slowly replacing the fixed mank on the cliff.

61 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Waimea

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 581 ● Waimea Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 341 ● Flying Hawaiian Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 250 ● Technosurfing Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 123 ● Whip Tide Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b 77 ● Restless Native Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b 62 ● Aquarius Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b 54 ● Tsunami Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b 36 ● Man Overboard Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c 65 ● Butt Bongo Fiesta Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c 35 ● Cote d'Azure Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a 24 ● Urban Surfer Sport
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a 12 ● Cold War Sport
5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b 13 ● China Beach Sport
5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b 8 ● Livin' Astro Sport
5.15a 9a+ 36 XI+ 37 E11 7c 5 ● Jaws II Sport