Random patch of bolts above Schoolroom raps
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What is the story behind the weird patch of bolts up and to the north of the Schoolroom rap anchors? Six shiny new bolts in a random pattern maybe 200-300 feet above the Schoolroom raps as you are descending the through the bushes. They were on the very right edge of the gully thing, looking straight down into the Green A. Very odd and unnecessary. Almost like someone was just practicing placing bolts. All six had two link, chain link "hangers". |
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Was there a rescue there? |
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6 bolts and you didn't tie in to all of them??!! |
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hate those damn washer and chain setups, but at least there's SIX of them |
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My bet is that there's a corresponding set straight across the canyon (Green A gully). |
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Brian in SLC wrote:My bet is that there's a corresponding set straight across the canyon (Green A gully). Ugh.Yoooo |
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Looks like a sweet place to hang a chair. :) |
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Josh Holmes that was REALLY funny! |
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bring up a leatherman pull hangers, smash bolts, buy 6 new bolts, create new climb!! Wait do we want to start bolt war with slack liners? Seems thats what they were drilled for! Just asking??? |
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Similar to the chair, it looks like they may have used wedge bolts of questionable quality steel. The low budget, chain/stack of washers in place of hangers set ups make me suspicious. Could you tell what grade steel/kind of bolts they were? |
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Even better, thanks John. |
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That is a high line anchor. The guys that bolted it are on MP. Hopefully they can step up and speak for them self. I don't know them personally but did talk with them as we were headed down after climbing. This was a couple months ago. I don't remember their name, but one did tell me his MP name when I asked because I wanted to see pictures. I didn't think about what they were using for an anchor at the time. I believe they said the other side was above the offwidth on the last pitch of the green A. SO either they will step up and defend it or someone is going to have 12 hangers for a new route. |
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Before any one gets all worked up there are no hangers to be had. They are pieces of chain. Using chain for anchors is a poor practice that has been shun for many many year now because there are so many better arrangements. |
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Allen Sanderson wrote:Using chain for anchors is a poor practice that has been shun for many many year now because there are so many better arrangements.Seems like I saw washer stack/chain anchor described in a climbing mag article a number of years back...ha ha. Low profile, discreet location...pretty easy to do in that area. |
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Yeah I was waiting for you to chime in on that reminder of that article I authored. BITD it was acceptable for rap anchors as the choices were limited, However, slack lining puts very different loads on the anchors than rappelling. |