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any good easier alpine routes for the month of April.

Original Post
mike526 · · schaumburg · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 0

Looking for a possible good beginneer alpine rock route for the beginning of April. I know that this is the time of year most places get a lot of snow. Would prefer to stay in the US and keep the grade on the lower end of the spectrum 5.7 being the limit. Not sure what conditions are like this time of year in the sierra's.

thanks

Ryan Nevius · · Perchtoldsdorf, AT · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 1,837

So you're looking for "alpine," but no snow? What are you actually looking for?

mike526 · · schaumburg · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 0

I don't mind snow, I would prefer more of an alpine rock climb than a snow slog consisting of nothing but post-holing. I'm up for anything really just looking for some suggestions.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

Mike, because alpine rock routes are, by name, in the mountains, the Sierra will still be quite snowy. Some of the south or east-facing routes may be doable in April in the Sierra, but expect it to be chilly! There would probably be snow on ledges and shaded areas of the climb, and be prepared for a snow-travel approach.

Here's one (I haven't done):

mountainproject.com/v/east-…

KathyS · · Poughkeepsie, NY · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 125

I climbed Mt Whitney in the middle of April of 2012, and we got 1-2 feet of snow on the hike in, and woke up to 4F at Upper Boyscout Lake on summit morning. Took the Mountaineers' Route to the summit, and was glad I hadn't planned on climbing rock bare-handed.

kenr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 16,608

April is about my favoite time to be out in the high mountains. Because it's a great season for mountaineering on skis. Being good on ungroomed snow on skis makes everything easier faster way more fun. So if you want to do "alpine" stuff in April: Learn to ski.

Most of my USA April alpine stuff has been in the eastside southern Sierra. Nice thing about being around Bishop is even if you get skunked by conditions (e.g. fresh snow) for alpine routes, there's so much other great climbing low in the valley (or you could drive S to JTree).

But even there, normally there is lots and lots of snow (as most other "slpine" areas in USA) -- surely want to bring snowshoes. Normally need to cross snow just to get to the summer trailheads. Might want to postpone your trip to the very end of April (or early May), because historically they do lots of plowing to high trailheads in the second half of April (and the last weekend of April is crowded for the opening of fishing season).

routes (low class 5):

  • Aretes of Crystal Crag (fun granite) (emphasize the South end) might have the shortest approach (likely need to purchase a ticket to use the cross-country ski trails).
  • I sort of remember someone reporting they found the NE ridge of Bear Creek Spire to be mostly snow-free (see Comments on MP)
  • Mt Russell E ridge (class 3) would be fun to do as the top of a ski tour -- take advantage of the snow covering the scree approach.
  • Mt Whitney I've climbed twice in April -- but not the rock routes. Advantages of April are: No permit required. Approach road often melted out to within a mile of the summer trailhead. Usually can bypass the Escherbacher ledges. Mountaineers gully descent might actually be easier when snow-covered. But avalanche hazard on approaches and descents.

? might also consider some mid-altitude cliff which is not normally thought of as "alpine" -- but might feel alpine in April ? like maybe a warm day on Granite Chief ? (never done it) for easy access ?

Anyway (esp. if you don't ski) your best bet for easier access -- by plowed roads and mechanical lifts -- to high rock routes is to go to Europe: "alpine" as in Alps.

Ken
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Mountaineering
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